High Jewellery 2024: The 14 chicest collections to have on your radar

An ode to a thriving Italian garden, Gucci's latest collection is inspired by enchanting mazes and winding labyrinths centred around three themes; symmetry and ordered beauty, geometric splendor, and blooming nature. 

The collection, which features a total of 140 one-of-a-kind masterpieces, embraces a unique blend of the rational and emotional – two forces of creativity that drive human endeavor. It celebrates the exuberant spirit, where instinct and passion play with aesthetic clarity and refinement.

In 1932, Gabrielle Chanel introduced her first and only jewellery collection, Bijoux de Diamants, breaking with the codes of traditional jewellery. Since then the house has continued its founder's dream, creating an array of High Jewellery Collections, all inspired by Gabrielle. Since then each High Jewellery collection is a testament to turning dreams into reality. 

This includes the art of transforming the iconic, airy tweed of the House into pieces of High Jewellery that drape with the same delicacy and allure as the original fabric. Under the guidance of Patrice Leguéreau, Director of Chanel Fine Jewellery, the ;Tweed de Chanel' collection reimagines tweed in an unprecedented form: a delicate mosaic of gemstones. A prime example of this innovative approach is the Tweed Royal Necklace, a masterpiece born from 2,400 hours of meticulous workmanship. This necklace showcases an intricately flexible lattice of gemstone tweed, blending yellow gold with a magnificent mix of rubies and diamonds. At its heart sits a majestic lion's head, emblematic of Chanel High Jewellery, which can be detached and adorned as a brooch. The centerpiece, a pear-cut diamond, is also designed to be versatile, easily transitioning into a standalone ring.

In the year of its 140th anniversary, Bulgari has unveiled Aeterna, an ode to the Roman Maison's desire to embrace the past while delighting in the present and envisioning a magnificent future. Featuring over 500 masterpieces, including High Jewellery, luxury bags, and fragrances. The collection also includes a selection of embellished watches which reflect the joy of a starry Italian summer night, lit up by vibrant fireworks and each equipped with the Piccolissimo mechanical micro round movement. The jewellery itself is stunning, showcasing an "unrivalled ability to master the most precious gems of nature," explains the brand. 

To celebrate two decades of exquisite craftsmanship, Cindy Chao has unveiled her latest collection featuring two iconic motifs, Dragonfly and leaf of Four Seasons. Celebrity fans of the brand include Michelle Yeoh,  Julia Roberts and Salma Hayek to name a few. 

A favourite of the collection is the Four Seasons leaf motif which symbolises the ever-changing seasonality and brings to mind the perpetual cycle of nature. Chao worked with 12 European master craftsman to study and forge the organic forms of leaves in different seasons. To capture the true ambience of each season they only worked on the leaves in their respective seasons meaning it took three cycles of four seasons to accomplish the finial objets des arts. Each Leaf Brooch is set with around 1,500 gemstones on the titanium base of just 1.77mm in thickness and weighs a mere 22 grams, a true reflection of the lightness of a real leaf.

Beloved British multinational jeweller Graff presented their latest offering with a cinematic campaign celebrating the otherworldly beauty of its creations. The new collection features some of the brand's most decadent jewels, with an ethereal, ultra-feminine allure inspired by the night's sky. 

Standouts from the collection include an emerald and diamond necklace showcasing three incredibly rare 4 carat lozenge shape Colombian emeralds and pair of earrings featuring 21 carat Fancy Yellow radiant cut diamonds, surrounded by intricate rows of white diamonds. Anne-Eva Geffroy, Design Director at Graff, commented, 

"Throughout our design process, we drew inspiration from the unique qualities and individual nuances of each diamond and gemstone, but also from the virtues that we associate with femininity such as power, creativity and strength. For this reason, each jewellery creation is imbued with a figurative energy that is contemporary yet timeless while also remaining true to the legacy of the House."

Cartier chose to unveil its latest collection in Vienna, a hub of history and culture. Inspired by "a theatre of apparitions where precious animals parade", you'll find wildlife delicately incorporated into each piece. You might discover a pink flamingo pointing its head toward a bush of emerald reeds or a snow leopard softly stepping over a rock crystal. The playful collection has been designed to "surprise, amaze and bring modernity by way of unexpected encounters," explains Jacqueline Karachi, Director of High Jewellery 

Gucci presented its new chapter of the story dedicated to its High Jewelry collection, a testament to the House’s unique craftsmanship, artistry, and attention to detail. 

Headed up by the house's new Creative Director, Sabato DeSarno, the Allegoria collection is inspired by the cycle of the four seasons. The collection plays with antique stones, eclectic cuts, unique designs and bold rich tones, generating a crescendo of emotion and joie de vivre.

De Beers announced the Forces of Nature High Jewellery collection on the 22 January, featuring eight unique solitaire diamond rings complemented by either a crown or jacket. Drawing inspiration from the majestic wildlife of Southern Africa, these transformable rings embody the splendour of nature, crafted with exceptionally rare diamonds handpicked for their unmatched quality and character. Each piece begins with a standout hero diamond, symbolising a specific creature through its distinct energy and allure, leading to the creation of eight bespoke pieces that abstractly represent iconic native animals. 

The collection showcases masterful craftsmanship, with designs that range from a lion-inspired ring with a golden mane to a giraffe Crown Ring accented with rough diamonds, each offering versatile wearability. De Beers' innovative approach allows these rings to be worn in multiple ways, transforming from elegant solitaires into stunning statement pieces. “The eight featured animals are an ode to the natural intoxicating beauty of the African continent, whose earth yields jaw-dropping natural treasures," Céline Assimon, De Beers CEO, told Hello! Fashion, "When designing the rings, we had no constraints: we were guided by the individual character of eight extraordinary diamonds. Their incomparable beauty challenged us to create strikingly modern, abstract interpretations of the majestic creatures that roam the environment that De Beers strives to conserve through our Building Forever programme."

Dior's latest High Jewellery collection, 'Les Jardins de la Couture,' is a homage to the inspiration gardens provided to Christian Dior since the iconic 'New Look' show in 1947. Crafted by Victoire de Castellane, Creative Director of Dior Joaillerie, who has been designing for the Maison since 1999, the collection was showcased at a spectacular event on June 3 2023 at Lake Como's Villa Erba, with the likes of Elizabeth Debicki, Michelle Yeoh, and Rosamund Pike in attendance. 

The collections features 170 pieces, including three secret watches, all inspired by the flora and fauna of the natural world. Think 'spring' with lush foliage, stone-crafted flowers, bouquets and abstract floral motifs. Innovatively designed, the collection offers versatility in wear, including transformable pieces where stones can be detached, rings that adorn multiple fingers, and brooches.

The 'Family Journey' collection marks a significant chapter in Boodles' legacy, celebrating a transformative odyssey that unveiled new horizons for the brand. In 1962, then-Chairman Anthony Wainwright embarked on a remarkable 16-day expedition to connect with dealers of exquisite diamonds and gemstones. 

The relationships he forged during this journey revolutionised Boodles, granting access to unparalleled quality in jewels. Fast forward sixty years, current Chairman, Nicholas Wainwright, has paid tribute to his father's pioneering spirit by undertaking his own expedition through ten European cities in ten days. The journey breathed life into the pieces you see in this collection. A highlight is the necklace inspired by Barcelona, capturing the city's dynamic energy with bold, brilliant hues, "visit Barcelona’s Park Güell and look out for Gaudí’s salamander, made of pink, yellow and green tiles. We’ve channelled his riot of colour, crafting a suite featuring a necklace, earrings and a ring — with a 3.32 carat pink sapphire at its heart."

Taking inspiration from the delicate lace textile, Precious Lace is a collection of artisan-crafted pieces that mimics the intricate detail and Savoir-faire that goes into making traditional lace material. “Our jewellery Artisans replicate the delicacy of lace with the extreme precision of their goldwork, combined with an airy design highlighting the radiance of precious stones.”

The Van Cleef & Arpels 'Le Grand Tour' collection was unveiled in the breathtaking gardens of Rome's Villa Medici, marking one of the most magnificent high-jewellery presentations of the year. 

Each piece in the collection serves as a magical memento, inspired by Grand Tours. The "Grand Tour" was a tradition that began in the 16th century, where affluent Europeans embarked on long journeys across the continent. This voyage was seen as an elaborate cultural immersion, allowing them to deepen their understanding of art, literature, architecture, music, and other disciplines in a form of luxurious extended educational retreat. Think 'Gap Year' but for the 1%. "We followed the trail of our predecessors and chose cities that were renowned stops historically," explains Nicolas Bos, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, "We took inspiration from antique jewelry – Roman, Etruscan, Medieval or Renaissance –, marrying it with our own heritage, style and craftsmanship." 

Over the last two centuries Chaumet has prided itself as a jewellery that celebrates the natural world, "the Maison’s story has been written in complete harmony with nature," the brand explains. The 'Le Jardin de Chaumet' High Jewellery Collection was unveiled in 2023 in their iconic 12 Vendôme address. 

"Divided into four chapters, Le Jardin de Chaumet invites you to stroll through the undergrowth, wander among the flowers or in the fields, and let your imagination wander as you gaze upon the bouquets of the world."

In the wake of two challenging post-pandemic years, creative director Claire Choisne felt an overwhelming urge to break free from constraints, channeling a deep-seated desire to offer joy to the well heeled Boucheron clientele. It was from this yearning that the Carte Blanche 'More is More' collection was born, marking a bold departure from traditional High Jewelry norms. 

Choisne and her team embarked on a journey of creativity, embracing extravagant dimensions and elemental shapes like spheres and cubes, painting their creations with vibrant colors, stark contrasts, and unprecedented creations which give off an 80s inspired vibe. They ventured into the realm of optical illusions, incorporated novel materials, and in some instances, completely redefined the essence of High Jewellery. "This collection demonstrates that joy and happiness are compatible with the conservative High Jewellery industry," explains Boucheron, "This collection is unexpected, surprising, and comforting."