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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK GETS SERIOUSLY STYLISH


February 9, 2003
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Manhattan style is no laughing matter if the opening weekend of New York Fashion Week is anything to go by. The event got off to a serious start, with leading designers showing sombre, tailored collections.

Diane Von Furstenberg, Nicole Miller and Luella Bartley all showed new ranges on Sunday, and kept to understated, dark ensembles. Miller's new collection featured a palette of black, olive, steel blue and taupe, with elaborate stitching lightening up the outfits. A suede coat in olive was brightened by striking embroidery while zips added a little levity to a fitted jacket. She also used shirring to give a sexy, body-hugging look to solid jersey dresses.

Diane von Furstenberg, more usually associated with frivolous, colourful styles, also showed her dark side on Manhattan's catwalks. A black woollen wrap dress announced a more muted range and even her trademark chiffon prints were concealed under gray blazers. It was an elegant, tailored collection, offering a black woollen tuxedo tied with a sash and a striking two-piece tuxedo and corset outfit.

Despite the sombre feel, the shows were not without light-hearted moments. Kenneth Cole's new range drew some laughs from the audience, as a series of one-liners were projected onto the walls around the catwalk. His designs kept to the form-fitting, understated character of the other collections, however. Simple, streamlined leather topped moleskin coats complimented waxed cotton dresses and jersey turtlenecks reminiscent of Annie Hall.

Photo: © Alphapress.com
Sean John was a provocative presence at the showsPhoto: © FWDy
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Muted masculinity was the order of the day for John VarvatosPhoto: © FWD

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