Park Barbiecore for a second, right now indie sleaze is having a moment. The current look is essentially a TikTok-fuelled contemporary take on the indie rock trend that dominated from around 2006 to 2012, with a distinctly grungy undertone.
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Fancy taking on the Gen-Z-adored aesthetic this season? Turn back the clock and look to the likes of Alexa Chung, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, and Skins' inimitable Effy Stonem for inspo, but to understand it fully, you first need to nail grunge.
What exactly is grunge?
Grunge is an alternative rock genre and subculture that flourished during the late 1980s and early 1990s. Emerging in the Pacific Northwest, grunge sound fuses elements of both punk rock and heavy metal, encapsulated in the musical works of bands such as Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Soundgarden and Alice in Chains. The word "grunge" derives from American slang, meaning grime or dirt, lending itself perfectly to its unkempt, essentially dishevelled, aesthetic.
What is grunge fashion like?
The slouchy, bedraggled look had an almost anti-fashion spirit about it. Long shaggy hair was styled alongside ripped jeans, leatherette coats, combat boots (often Doc Martens), ripped tights, band T-shirts and longline skirts.
There was an emphasis on second-hand clothes and eco-friendly fabrics, the idea being that casual looks signalled authenticity – an integral part of the Seattle scene.
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Patron saint of grunge Courtney Love popularised the "kinderwhore" look in the 1990s, consisting of low-cut or mini length babydoll and Peter-Pan-collared dresses, Mary Janes, liberally applied smudgy eyeliner and, the cherry on the cake, a princess tiara.
Ironically, the non-conformist look seeped into the mainstream, though Marc Jacobs' grunge-inspired spring 1993 collection for Perry Ellis was perhaps a tad premature. Kate Moss and Kristen McMenamy walking the runway in graphic T-shirts featuring the works of cartoonist Robert Crumb? You had to be there. Ahead of its time, his flannel shirts, knitted beanies, and raglan tees didn't go down too well with the brand's owners and the creative director was promptly sacked.
Marc did however go on to win the 1992 CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award, though OG grunge girl Courtney Love was never a fan of his take. "No offense to MJ [Marc Jacobs] but he never got it right," she told Refinery 29. In fact, Marc sent Courtney and Kurt Cobain samples of the line and they set fire to them. Ouch.
Instead, she favoured Hedi Slimane's 2013 collection for Saint Laurent which brought the trend back to the runway, for which she was his muse.
Hello! Fashion shares the most iconic grunge looks to recreate:
Courtney Love
Dove Cameron
Kourtney Kardashian
Kate Moss
Alexa Chung
Zoë Kravitz
Taylor Momsen
Cara Delevingne
Alice Dellal
Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen
Georgia May Jagger
Drew Barrymore
Kristen Stewart
Lily Rose Depp
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