Acclaimed fashion designer Ralph Lauren will debut his latest men’s collection in Milan in January, leaving behind US shores. The Italian runway show would be a first for Ralph – a surprise move from a genius perhaps as well known for his use of iconic American imagery as for his classic designs.
“I think it’s an extremely positive thing when an American designer like Ralph Lauren decides to show in Europe,” says Mario Boselli, president of Italian fashion governing body Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
Ralph is not the only US fashion icon to stage shows in Milan. Calvin Klein has adopted the picturesque Italian city for all of his signature collections in recent years. And even Donna Karan, a native New Yorker and famed Manhattan-phile, has crossed the pond for catwalk presentations.
“I believe there’s a clear logic to Ralph Lauren’s decision,” says Boselli. “It is a reflection of the strength and growth of the Italian pret-a-porter industry and the importance of Milan as an international fashion capital. We are very happy with this development.” Insiders are unsure which line Ralph will show in Milan, though most predict it will be his up-market Purple Line.
Industry watchers were surprised by patriotic Ralph’s move, especially in the wake of the September 11 attacks. However, Milan’s autumn menswear season is notably stronger than Manhattan’s, offering upwards of 60 top shows, and may make more sense from a business standpoint.
The transatlantic move isn’t Ralph’s only shock of late. On the female fashion front, the 62-year-old designer has planned a second round of scandalous hem lines for next fall. The short skirt look came back late last winter, and while industry watchers predicted the look would fizzle, Ralph and Calvin, among others, continue to push the leggy silhouette.