Designers Betsey Johnson and Bill Blass were at opposite ends of the style spectrum as their latest designs hit the runway on Monday at New York Fashion Week. Betsey was all in-your-face frills and neons, whereas Lars Nilsson, in his third season at Bill Blass, continued the tradition of high style that made the fashion house famous.
Betsey dubbed her collection of mix ‘n’ match velvet and lace confections “Sisters”, dedicating it to the many women who work for her. And she wasn’t just paying them lip service: the off-beat designer dipped into her employee pool to recruit ladies to don her latest creations on the runway. Standing to side of the stage, the designer held up placards describing each of her amateur models – such as “Heather D, Sales Girl, Soho” – strutting down the catwalk with a vampy sass that could give professional mannequins a run for their money.
An intimate audience of around 100 looked on as the girls took to the catwalk in girlie designs that took a page from the books of Madonna and Cindy Lauper. Accessorised with fingerless gloves and over the knee stockings in black lace, low-slung studded belts and bustiers over tiered skirts were the order of the day. Betsey also covered funky glamour with vintage looks, including gowns inspired by flappers and Forties film stars.
Inspiration may be found just about anywhere, and Lars Nilsson at Bill Blass took his from an Amish weave tablecloth owned by his mum in Sweden. Contrasting with Betsey’s over the top extravagance, Lars’s third collection for the fashion house was pared down and smart. Striped separates and prints in lush fabrics combined with basics in taupe, ecru and burgundy, while evening wear was equally elegant with plunge fronts and clean, feminine lines in simple colour palettes.
Fans like Kim Cattrall loved the collection, and retailers, too, were pleased with the results. Said Neiman Marcus CEO Burt Tansky: “I thought it was wonderful – fresh, elegant and balanced.”
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Photo: © Alphapress.com
