French designer Christian Lacroix says he’s “utterly thrilled and motivated” to be named new creative director for Florence-based design house Pucci. The couturier aims to reignite the original spirit of the iconic house, whose name was built on paisley and geometric prints, sportswear staples for the Sixties jet set.
“I am overjoyed,” said Christian, who will continue to act as artistic director for his eponymous house. “Pucci has always been part of my design pantheon and my aspirations. I want to rediscover the energy and dynamism of the early years of elegant sportswear.”
Founded by trendsetting ski champion and playboy Emilo Pucci in 1950 – he coined the term “Capri pants” for cropped trousers – the label once counted Jackie Onassis, Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe, who was buried in a Pucci creation, as three of its biggest fans.
Christian is the latest in a line of directors who have tried to give direction to the struggling house, which is 67 per cent owned by fashion conglomoate LVMH. The last in the post was Julio Espada, who left the label after just three collections. Julio had been widely criticised for leaving behind the house’s heritage of vibrant prints and colours, instead favouring more sombre creations.
Though reaction to the appointment has been mixed, British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman believes the new partnership is a good one. “Christian is particularly good with colour and print,” she says, “and that is, of course, what the Pucci brand is all about.”
Lacroix will present his first collection for the label in Milan this autumn.