As temperatures soared to 104 degrees during the kick off to Milan Fashion Week, it seemed appropriate that two key themes uniting the shows to date should be the city – where fashionistas sweltered in a heat wave – and the beach, which is presumably where most wished they could be.
At Dolce & Gabbana, the look was coastal playboy with lashings of dosh. Suits, dinner jackets – off white not black – and a white linen tuxedo took to the runway alongside chunky cable-knit sweaters, linen cargo pants and fishnet vests. “Think of St Tropez, Capri Portofino. There are two types of man mingling in the piazza – the rich holidaymaker heading out for a Martini in a suit and low-buttoned shirt and the fisherman chatting to his friends,” said Domenico Dolce after the show.
Meanwhile, Donatella Versace chose to revisit an almost forgotten world – that of the pre-revolution Cuban nobility. Beautifully cut white linen frock coats, sheer crepe and lacy shirts worn open to the waist, and sleek pinstripes were intended to take modern plantation-owner wannabes from the fields into the club. Providing the music for the show at Versace’s Via del Gesu palazzo, was Boy George – although he didn’t actually spin the discs himself, preferring to remain front row in the audience.
Also showing on the opening Sunday were Costume National, which presented a sensitive tack again reflecting dandy dissenters, and former Gucci and Prada designer Neil Barrett. Describing his collection as the result of “just being me”, Neil showed the sharp tailoring and unique detailing for which he has become renowned. “I am designing for myself and the man I would like to be,” he said of the eclectic mix of baggy cargo pants, tailored jackets and poplin pinstripe shirts he sent down the runway.
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Photo: © Alphapress.com
