Cargo trousers may still be all the rage these days, but if the spring/summer 2003 shows at New York Fashion Week are anything to go by, the future is more Jackie K than combat.
All eyes were on Marc Jacobs, who delivered the foundations for a new era in women’s wear with a collection of ultra-feminine Sixties-inspired designs that seemed straight out of Camelot. The demure, empire-waisted frocks and ladylike suits, modelled by statuesque superstars such as Gisele Bundchen and Amber Valetta, were trends that were echoed in other designers’ collections.
Though Eighties-inspired pieces are a catwalk staple in this year’s shows and the frilly gypsy look can still be seen, much ready-to-wear seems to be heading towards a clean, more tailored silhouette. Michael Kors models appeared to be out of a social club, wearing short, white gloves with his belted pencil skirts and sweater sets. Elsewhere, collections by Diane von Furstenberg and DKNY included sashed dresses seemingly inspired by old Hollywood glamour, and Oscar de la Renta’s featured belted above-the-knee dresses with matching coats and a dramatic strapless gown redolent of a Kennedy-era ball.
For those more at home in the more casual look, Marc Jacobs hasn’t entirely left his grunge past behind. Thursday afternoon’s Marc by Marc Jacobs show featured an array of streetwise pieces, including zippered denim frocks and slim-fit cargo trousers, that could be paired perfectly with the designer’s gabardine take on the Members Only jacket.