Yves Saint Laurent's haute couture headquarters on Paris' Avenue Marceau closed for good on Thursday, nearly ten months after the French designer announced his retirement from fashion. The shuttering of the elegant salon in the city's ultra-chic 16th-century arrondissement marks the end of an era which began when Saint Laurent launched his posh workshop with partner Pierre Berge in 1961.
The last piece created by the couture house – the 77,751st design, to be exact – is a gold-embroidered black wool jacket that has been given to legendary French actress and Saint Laurent muse Catherine Deneuve.
Dozens of the more than 150 employees let go as a result of the closure have already found posts at other couture houses, many have retired and a handful will be setting up their own businesses. The loss is surely a difficult one for Yves, who said his only regret upon retiring was leaving behind the seamstresses who crafted his famous haute couture gowns. "This house was built on love," he said. "That is what I will miss."
After setting up his signature firm four decades ago, Yves soon created a series of fashion firsts, including the trench coat, the see-through blouse, the female tuxedo and androgynous trouser suits.
Gucci acquired the rights to the YSL brand in 1999, with Yves retaining control of haute couture, while the Italian firm's creative director Tom Ford took on ready-to-wear and accessories. Three years later, however, the 65-year-old French fashion icon announced he'd reached the end of his career.
"It's been a huge shock," says Dominique Deroche, who served as haute couture press secretary for 36 years, of the closing. "I'm not speaking as a Saint Laurent groupie, but there's no getting away from the influence he's had on the fashion business."
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Photo: © Alphapress.com
