John Galliano set runways sizzling this week when, eschewing his more familiar layered approach, he sent models down the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week in racy bustier tops, see-through trousers and sheer body stockings painted with tattoo art.
Lamé dresses, satin track bottoms and lots of lace and garter belts were also key to the collection from the British designer who has helped turn the French fashion house into one of the most profitable in the business. Clever tailoring lifted bosoms and emphasised pert rears, in a look for spring/summer 2004 which was both sharply cut and destructured at the same time.
Destructuring was the name of the game over at Vivienne Westwood, too. The designer – who will be the subject of the largest exhibition ever dedicated to a British designer at a V&A show in the spring – went for studied disarray, explored through a tucked and draped approach.
Colour-wise, while some designers have kept to low key palettes of soft neutrals, browns and beige for the new season, there were also hot hues in evidence. At Issey Miyake, Noaki Takizawa presented scorching orange frocks while Ungaro was showing full-on fuchsia frills.