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Milan closes with a dash of disco and Brit elegance


June 29, 2006
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It's been a week of sartorial statements in Milan. Shorts have caused one of the biggest stirs, from Prada's minimalist version to Armani's suit shorts for the office.

The trend continued in the closing stages of the fashion extravaganza when Moschino teamed a white dinner jacket and bow-tie with Bermuda shorts – ideal for chic riviera-wear or perhaps destined to be worn by future James Bonds.

It wasn't just raised hemlines making the headlines, however. Iconic Brit label Burberry opted for "dishevelled elegance" by pushing up the sleeves on a classic trench coat, or cinching it at the waist with ultra narrow belts. "I wanted the collection to feel tailored and refined, but to have the effortless easy attitude of a pair of jeans and a T-shirt," said designer Christopher Bailey.

A casually aristocratic approach - think Jude Law in The Talented Mr Ripley crossed with Anthony Andrews' character in Brideshead Revisited - was defined by turquoise v-necks interspersed with tailored suits. The British fashionista even gave the humble cardigan a metro-male makeover, interpreted through glittering sequins and an androgynous, fitted silhouette.

Taking over from Tom Ford at Gucci was always going to be a hard act to follow, but designer Frida Giannini is already making her mark with her first menswear collection. The spring/summer 2007 show delivered a glamorous disco-orientated collection with clinging hipster trousers in a palette of rich jewel-shades - as also seen at Roberto Cavalli - teamed with Seventies-style silk shirts and retro leather jackets.

As at so many of the shows, the slimline silhouette was the order of the day at Gucci while outsize leather bags and suede caps echoed the sporty theme. "The spirit is that of a globetrotter who might jet between London, New York and Capri, but all with a great nonchalance," explains Frida.

Photo: © Alphapress.com
A white tuxedo with shorts? That's what the stylishly dressed male will be wearing next summer apparently, as cropped trousers dominated on the Milan catwalksPhoto: © Getty Images
Photo: © Alphapress.com
In a daring move Burberry revamped the ultra-conservative cardi, adding sequins for a sparklingly modern take on a Fifties classic Photo: © Getty Images
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Gucci resurrected disco glam with tight hipster trousers in bright hues and Seventies style silk shirtsPhoto: © Getty Images

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