As the French capital looked ahead to spring/summer 2008 the queen of British style, Vivienne Westwood, delivered a collection dominated by nipped-in bodices, gem-encrusted cut-out waistcoats and tropical island castaway garb.
Ranging from 17th-century aristo attire to street-wise match girl in tattered, pastel-hued cottons, the look delivered right royal attitude underlined by slogan-emblazoned militancy.
A highlight were the godmother of punk's bejewelled bustiers, which recreated the iridescent hues and swirling designs of a peacock's plumage. Encrusted with metallic emboidery and studded with small stones, the glittering corset affairs conjured faery armour and multi-hued, textured carapaces from the world of nature.
Elsewhere a pastel palette of candy pink, sky blue and peppermint was used in a way that was at once strong, über-feminine and daringly creative.
Over at Dior another flamboyant Brit, John Galliano, had blended androgynous tailoring with slinky Hollywood glamour. Models paraded the runway in Dietrich-style trouser suits and scarlet evening gowns which recapture the golden age of film.
At the show's finale Dior's chief designer acknowledged the applause, recreating the classic photo of the Teutonic diva in top hat and tails.