Masked and be-ribboned, with little bells and multicoloured tassels dangling from their scarlet parka and combat pant combos, John Galliano's models brought a breath of jester-like revelry to the climax of the designer's autumn/winter 2008 show in Paris at the weekend.
Unlike many of the other big names, who presented lines more sober in cut and colour, the 47-year-old British designer filled the runway with creations inspired by the ice fairs of Tudor times, in which wealthy merchants straight out of Holbein paintings mingled with travelling players on the frozen Thames.
The emphasis was on textures and richly contrasted fabrics, with thick woollen knits teamed with traditional pinstripe weave, soft black velvet and chic gabardine – all accessorised with fur collars and leather accessories. And having kicked off the show with an exploration of the wealthy merchant classes, Galliano - who's renowned for his theatrical style - brought it to a close with a carnival-like explosion of colour.
Elsewhere the look was more restrained and dominated by traditional suits reworked to include a modern twist. Jean-Paul Gaultier presented tailored, silk-lined jackets topped with bowler hats alongside pinstripe waistcoats matched with front-laced leather trousers, while Louis Vuitton added high necked shirts and bomber jackets to the traditional suit silhouette.
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Photo: © Alphapress.com
