Christian Lacroix presented an opulent, tactile and sensually indulgent approach to autumn/winter dressing in Paris this week. Satin cocktail dresses in mouthwateringly rich hues of vibrant cherry, orange and zesty lime incorporated the bow theme reflected in the presentations from several other fashion houses, while establishing individuality with the richness of their colour palette.
Karl Lagerfeld's eponymous collection gave the flouncy, romantic bows on display at Lacroix a more masculine interpretation, with models striding out in outfits which echoed the familiar style of the maestro himself. Outsize bow-ties were teamed with starchy white shirts and skinny black trousers, while for the evening the look took on a softer feel in draped gowns with sequin detailing at the shoulder.
Over at Givenchy Riccardo Tisci combined the severity of classical Spain - black toreador jackets with dramatic ruffled blouses - with the gold-rich history of the country's New World past. "I've been travelling in South America and discovered a romantic sensuality and elegance there I really identified with as Catholic," he explained.
Ungaro's young rising star Esteban Cortazar, 23, demonstrated a softly-softly approach with romantic, gently draped confections in sheer, whimsical fabrics. Among the collection's highlights were a pale pink gown with blowsy rose detailing at the shoulder and an equally sheer rose-and-thorn print affair.
Taking a very different tack was Jean-Paul Gaultier, fresh from his triumph at the Oscars where best actress Marion Cotillard wore his mermaid design. Describing his animalistic proposals for next winter as 'Bestial and fragile' he'd focused on real fur combined with exotic animal prints.