With "designer-in-residence'" John Galliano ready to make his return to the runway for the first time since his dismissal as creative director of Christian Dior in 20011, the eyes of the fashion world were firmly on the Oscar de la Renta show at New York Fashion Week. While the designer did not make a cameo appearance, Mr Galliano's presence was felt throughout the stunning theatrical display.
Oversized cloche hats, reminiscent of those worn on Dior's 2008 runway, referred to his love of exaggerated headgear, while the Galliano silhouette came through with a series of layered chiffon sheer skirts, plunging necklines and belted waists – Also stealing the limelight was an array of striking ball gowns. In teal, shocking pink and violet, the creations were adorned with intricate lacework and gold embroidery. The Times reported that the designer and his colleagues spent hours "leading a seminar in how to tie the belts properly", while the show's make-up artist Gucci Westman mentioned John's input several times while taking reporters through the show's beauty look of waves, smoky eyes and berry pouts.
Oscar de la Renta had some company as he took his bow on the runway, with supermodel Karlie Kloss helping him to close the show. Model of the moment Cara Delevingne also had a starring role on the catwalk, modelling a intricately embroidered black and gold skirt ensemble, fur stole and pink gloves. The veteran designer recently opened up about his decision to invite John to work with him in the run-up to New York Fashion Week. "I like him very much," he told New York Magazine, adding: "The years I was doing Balmain in Paris, I went many times with Anna [Wintour] to his shows." He added that was Anna who suggested the pair join forces: "When Anna asked me if I would have John in my studio, I said yes. I also believe that everyone should have a second chance, especially someone as talented as John. And he worked so hard on his recovery."
Asked whether John's role in the studio would continue beyond New York Fashion Week, he was uncertain. "I would love for him to stay. Will he? I cannot tell you that today. Because we haven't gone that far in really discussing it."