From the “You lookin’ at me?” Marine-vet chic of Taxi Driver to the pink boucle golf sweater and trouser ensemble of Casino, the many on-screen looks of Robert De Niro are the subject of a museum exhibition in New York.
Robert De Niro: Costume & Character, opening on Wednesday at the American Museum of the Moving Image in Queens, offers a first look at costumes from more than 20 of Robert’s greatest films. The exhibits trace the sartorial chameleon’s venerable steps through a variety of iconic ensembles, including the leopard-skin robe and boxing gloves from 1981’s Raging Bull, the garish Hawaiian shirts from 1991’s Cape Fear and a kaleidoscope of flamboyant outfits for his role as Vegas mobster Ace Rothstein in Casino.
The 1995 Martin Scorcese film is credited with creating a whole new look - the monochromatic suit and tie - and inspiring designers and fashion houses around the globe.
“I know certain designers who said they got a whole season out of Casino,” says Oscar-nominated costume designer Rita Ryack, who worked with Robert on the movie. “We came up with the monochrome tie and shirt on the set. That’s the moment that style was born and every fashion designer in America and Europe copied it.”
During the Nineties, Rita designed the actor’s outfits for Mad Dog & Glory, A Bronx Tale and Wag the Dog. But Casino, in which Robert’s outfits got more outrageous as he became more powerful, was the high point. Rita cites as one of her favourites the so-called “car seat costume” – a terracotta silk jacket, gold shirt and tie, teamed with chocolate-brown flared trousers.
She complains that the only problem with working with “Bob” is that, often, he just looks too damn tasteful. “You have to work really hard to dress him down – that’s an interesting challenge.”
Rita says the exhibition is much more than just a collection of clothing. “All his costumes become so much a part of his character. It’s not something he’s just thrown on – he really inhabits the clothes, which I think is a great skill.”