As a beauty editor, I've tried thousands of skincare products during my 26 year career. And when it comes to ingredients, you name it, I've tried it. Everything from the more ordinary additions such as vitamin C and hyaluronic acid to the extraordinary ones such as snail slime and snake venom (yes, really).
So when Joanner Strober, the CEO and co-founder of Midi Health, asked me if I'd ever used an estrogen cream as part of my post-menopausal skincare routine (my periods stopped around three years ago), I was a bit ashamed that I didn't even know that estrogen was an ingredient available in skincare - for your face. For your vagina, yes. But not your face.
Estrogen skincare: what you need to know
"We've long known that putting estrogen in your vagina thickens the walls and makes it moist," Joanna explained. "But it turns out you can do the same thing for your face.
"As estrogen depletes in your body, skin gets thinner and weaker. So when you put it on your face, it thickens the epidermis [the outer layer of your skin] and helps it to retain moisture in the same way that it does for your vagina."
I always see myself in the zeitgeist of skincare trends, so why had I never heard of this before? "It's not just a fancy cream that you can get in Sephora," Joanna explains. "The FDA started regulating estrogen creams. so they stopped letting skin care companies sell them, so you can only get them on prescription."
Of course, in the name of research, I asked my hormone nurse to prescribe me the Midi Estriol+ Face Cream after my conversation with Joanna, but before I tried it , I wanted to speak to a dermatologist to understand more about the science and safety behind them.
The science behind estrogen skincare
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Pooja Rhambia explained that while topical estrogen can help to stimulate collagen production and maintain hyaluronic acid levels to help improve skin hydration and elasticity, some people may experience side effects from the product too.
Risks of estrogen skincare
"Potential risks include local irritation and unknown absorption rates when used on the face," she notes. And as with any hormone therapy, Dr. Rhambia stresses that a consultation with a healthcare provider is essential.
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Trying estrogen skincare
As I don't have any hormone sensitivity in my family history, my nurse prescribed me a low-dose estrogen cream, which I've been using twice daily, after cleansing and applying serum, morning and night for about two months now.
When I started using it, the first thing I noticed was its rich yet still fully absorbent texture - something that I love in a face cream. My skin felt good after applying it and it made for a lovely base for makeup.
A couple of weeks in, I started layering another face cream over the top as I wanted my skin to feel even softer. Plus I needed an SPF for protection too. Some may think that the estrogen cream on its own is enough as it is quite rich, but I just wanted that quenched feeling that you get from adding lots of moisturizer to your routine.
A few weeks in and I've had a few people compliment my skin, and I admit that it is looking good. I've just finished my first bottle, and I'm going to crack open my second to keep monitoring the results.
And it seems other women are experiencing the same positive effects. According to an independent clinical study by the menopause healthcare platform Alloy, 68% of women using their estrogen-based M4 Face Cream noticed an improvement in overall skin health while 57% noticed an improvement in skin texture.
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My verdict on estrogen skincare
I have to say , I have had similar results from face creams that don't require a prescription and as Dr Rhambia explains, there are excellent non-hormonal options available for anyone who is hesitant to try estrogen cream.
"Ingredients such as retinoids, peptides, and vitamin C can help address perimenopausal skin changes by supporting collagen production and improving skin texture," she explains.
What I am predicting, thanks to this new interest in facial estrogen usage, is a new category of skincare to pop up in 2025. And other experts agree.
"Estrogen-mimicking ingredients are an exciting frontier in skincare," comments British dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto. "While actual estrogen cannot be used in cosmetics, plant-based compounds that mimic its effects show promise. As more data emerges, products targeting menopausal and post-menopausal skin are expected to become increasingly sophisticated and effective."
Watch this space...