Boundary-shattering Iris van Herpen is an outlier in the world of couture, and the maison's unique approach is reflected in its radical, avant-garde collections.
With a focus on contrast, fittingly her eponymous brand fuses artisanal craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology and, trust us, the results need to be seen to be believed.
The designer revolutionised haute couture by incorporating 3D printing into her designs, making her a pioneer in fashion technology. She was one of the first designers to use 3D printing to create intricate, sculptural pieces that mimic organic forms like coral, skeletons, and waves. By blending advanced digital modelling with traditional handcrafting, van Herpen continues to transform synthetic materials into wearable art, pushing the boundaries of fabric, form, and movement.
© GettyWhat is the story behind the Iris van Herpen label?
Dutch-born designer Iris van Herpen grew up in a farming village and learnt ballet from a young age. Her childhood, backgrounded by dance, prompted her to think about space and volume in forensic detail – a theme to which she constantly refers in her work.
After Iris graduated from Arnhem's ArtEZ University of Arts in 2006, she interned at Alexander McQueen. The following year the designer launched her own eponymous label and released her first couture collection, entitled 'Chemical Crows', at Amsterdam Fashion Week.
© Getty ImagesIris was one of the first designers to fully harness the powers of 3D-printing, her designs often explore nature and pattern – themes that lend themselves to digital fabrication and laser cutting, among other innovative techniques.
As such, her profile rose and her designs were worn by those who appreciated her visionary approach – Lady Gaga, for instance, who is similarly known as a trailblazer in her respective field, has been a huge fan of the brand since 2009.
What is Iris van Herpen known for?
The brand boasts an instantly recognisable aesthetic, largely centred around the use of unconventional materials – silicones, iron filings, and resin, to name a few.
van Herpen pieces tend to focus on the idea of fashion as an art form, with designs often possessing strong sculptural tendencies and exuding a certain offbeat, radical glamour.
© Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images"Fashion is an instrument for change, to shift us emotionally," Iris said about her creative focus. "Through biomimicry I look at the forces behind the forms in nature, these patterns and natural cycles are my guide to explore new forms of femininity for a more conscious and sustainable fashion for the future."
The creative's futuristic designs have captivated celebrities on and off the red carpet. Björk wore her sculptural pieces on tour, while Lady Gaga and Beyoncé have showcased her avant-garde creations in music videos and performances. Zendaya, Tilda Swinton, and Doja Cat have also embraced her ethereal, 3D-printed looks, reinforcing her status as a visionary in fashion.
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