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The best bikini wax styles for every preference & how to do it yourself

Bewildered by salon lingo? Here's our definitive guide to bikini waxing...

Content Writer
Updated: April 11, 2024

To wax, or not to wax? Summer is just around the corner which means it's time for some major epilation deliberation. Braving some brief discomfort in pursuit of a super silky bikini line is a no brainer for many when swimsuit season comes knocking.

Irrespective of whether you're devoted to the au naturel lifestyle or prefer to be as smooth as a pebble, knowledge is power. Should you choose to go down the waxing route, understanding which style options are available to you is a surefire way of putting yourself at ease ahead of your appointment. (Especially if it's your first!)

Close-up of bikini bottoms on woman sunbathing © Getty

First things first, professional beauty therapists have seen it all before. Your mildly awkward moment is merely part and parcel of their job. Freshen up with a wipe beforehand as a courtesy, but otherwise just focus on communicating to your therapist your desired look. Some styles don't even require you to remove your knickers, so if you're slightly nervous about getting a bikini wax for the first time, these may be best suited to you.

One thing to note is that the waxing process works by removing the hair via the root. If your hair isn't long enough, the formula won't be able to grip properly. For the best results, refrain from shaving for about a fortnight beforehand, according to leading beauty therapist and wax specialist Nadiya Bekar.

The different styles, explained 

  • Classic bikini

The hero style for first timers. A classic bikini wax follows the knicker line, waxing "just above the leg crease and a little underneath" according to Nadiya. Unless the therapist specifies otherwise, you can keep your knickers on, meaning it's ideal if you're after a novice-friendly style.

  • High bikini

This style is great for someone who hasn't yet built up the confidence for a Brazilian or wants a tidy look, still with some hair. It's essentially a deep wax suitable for high-cut swimwear. It involves a high V-shaped wax and "tapering into the labia and across the top for a sharp finish". 

  • Brazilian

Brazilians are suitable for those who want to feel clean and airy – great for workout fans. The style involves a high V-shape or rectangular shape "tapering into the very top of the labia majora", leaving a small strip of hair on the pubis. All the hair is removed from the labia majora and minora, as well as around the back. So yes, knickers off. 

  • Bikini line touch-up 

The touch up involves waxing the sides and a little underneath. It's great for teens and first-time waxers alike, but also is super handy in between more extensive waxing style appointments if you have a last-minute holiday or event.

  • French

This style takes off hair from the sides of your labia and most of the hair from the mons pubis, leaving only a rectangular landing strip (the back is left alone). It's a great choice for those wanting to wear high-cut swimwear.

  • Hollywood

Not for the fainthearted, the Hollywood is the most thorough bikini wax style. Banish your blushes – it means hairless all over from the mons pubis down to the labia and all the way round the back. This style is suitable for "experienced waxers, those that want no fuss and low maintenance and frequent exercisers", according to Nadiya.

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How to do a bikini wax at home

For beginners, room temperature wax and strips are the way to go. "Hot or hard wax can be messy and take a while to master," Nadiya explains. "Application can be controlled with the spatula on a small area and then the strip is applied and ripped off when you're ready." 

But if you are set on using hot wax, that is still totally doable, but you'll need to get equipped with a proper wax warmer. Make sure the temperature is low, which can be checked via the gauge (somewhere around just under halfway should be comfortable) and the thickness of the wax. It should have a honey-like consistency, "any looser and it will be hot". It's also a good idea to do a quick test on the inside of your wrist before applying any wax to your bikini line. "Too hot and you will know!" Nadiya says.

What you need to know beforehand

Wax sticks to dry skin, and so she recommends taking a cool shower beforehand, during which you can gently exfoliate. Crucially, do not moisturise afterwards, instead lightly talc the area.

"Sit in an airy well-lit room, you will get hot and sweaty (a fan is a good idea)," says Nadiya. "Have a mirror at hand, preferably a large, stand-alone one, positioned so you can see every angle. Have a small bin to dispose of the strips or patches, a firm pillow so you’re upright and make sure you are positioned on an old towel. Keep tweezers nearby to pick up any leftover hairs and buy some after-wax lotion (recommended over normal moisturiser as this will block your pores)."

The waxing process 

  • Start your bikini wax from the sides and work in small sections. "This gives you a more thorough wax and a lesser chance of friction burns," Nadiya says. "Work towards the middle and hopefully by then you will have removed enough to then work on one side, the labia and then the other side. "I lay on my side with a mirror positioned behind me to get to the bottom but that’s pretty advanced!" 
  • Apply the wax in small circular patches, against the natural growth of the hair. Wait a few seconds, pressing the patch firmly. "If you pull it off too soon, the wax will be a sticky mess, but if you leave it too long it will crumble and crack," Nadiya says.
  • Pull it off gently but firmly, at a 45-degree angle in the opposite direction of the hair growth. "Check for any stragglers and reapply only if the skin is not too red or hot," she advises. Otherwise, you can tweeze any stray, stubborn hairs, and then apply your after-wax lotion.

WAXING LYRICAL

Top tips...

  • Taking a cool shower and gently exfoliating the area beforehand  
  • Lightly trimming the area if necessary 
  • Applying a dedicated after-wax lotion

Mistakes to avoid...

  • Applying moisturiser before and after a wax
  • Leaving the hair too long (approximately 0.5cm is a good length) 
  • Shaving a few days before an appointment 

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