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Close-up of young mixed-race woman applying nail varnish,  with black background© Jonathan Knowles

What is a Russian manicure and is it dangerous?

The new viral technique, explained...

Emma North
Deputy Beauty Editor
July 27, 2023
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If you follow social media beauty trends as religiously as I do, you'll have noticed that not only are Sofia Richie's lavender nails going viral, but also a certain nail technique - the Russian manicure. But, what exactly is a Russian manicure?

From the looks of several viral posts on TikTok and Instagram, it's an incredibly immaculate gel manicure but to find out what the treatment involves and how it differs from a traditional mani I asked celebrity manicurist and OPI Global Ambassador, Iram Shelton.

What is a Russian manicure?

For the curious, a Russian manicure is basically a dry manicure where a hefty amount of the appointment time spent preparing the nails for colour. "The Russian manicure focuses on prep before anything else," says Iram. It's called a 'Russian manicure' as the technique originated in Russia, where it's now very mainstream and traditional soaking methods are no longer used. 

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It also includes the use of an electric file to work on the cuticles which gives incredibly perfect results. "You will only ever see flawless results after a Russian manicure as the attention to detail is like no other," explains Iram. Russian manicures are often more time consuming as the technician will hone in on the cuticle work until it's painstakingly precise - leaving your fingers looking immaculate.

What's the difference between a Russian manicure and a traditional gel manicure?

One difference between a regular gel manicure and a Russian manicure is longevity, says Iram, "For a Russian manicure, prep is the most important part and when proper time is taken, you end up with immaculate results and a manicure that can last over 3 weeks."

@boujofficial

The rundown on russian manicures. I have been getting russian manis for 4 years now. So much work and detail goes into these. They cost an arm and a leg and I am in the salon for a solid 3 hours but idc cause the end result is so worth it. If you try it out lmk what you think! #beauty #trends #russianmanicure #efilemanicure #nail #nailart #chromenails #pinkchromenails

♬ Four Seasons "Winter" 3rd Movement / Vivaldi(1214147) - Issaku Matsumoto

"A Russian manicure uses an electric nail file to carry out the prep of the nail and cuticle area whereas a normal manicure will use manual tools. It is also a dry manicure meaning that you don’t need to soak your fingers or apply a cuticle cream to soften the area as it’s all done whilst the skin and nails are dry. I prefer a dry technique as it allows the products afterwards to adhere better to the nail thus improving the longevity of the manicure."

Russian manicures are often a little bit more expensive than a traditional gel application due to the precision and attention to detail but this might be counteracted by a reduced number of salon visits overall. Expect to pay between £40-£100, depending on your nail tech and location. 

Aren't electric files bad for your nails?

"Using an e-file is perfectly safe when done by a professional. If used incorrectly it can cause damage to your nail plate and surrounding skin," says Iram, "The skin that surrounds the nail plate and cuticle areas is very sensitive but it’s also an important part of the nail as it creates a protective barrier against bacteria. If you damage the barrier this may lead to all kinds of problems like permanent damage and infections." 

This is where the Russian manicure tends to face some scrutiny. Removing this skin can lead to infections so if you're uncomfortable with this, it's worth bearing in mind and visiting a reputable salon or seeking out a traditional manicure instead.

"I believe that anyone who uses an e-file should be correctly trained and hold a qualification," she says. "It’s a complex tool to use and there are several 'bits' or 'heads' for an e-file and different speeds so it’s super important to know exactly what to use and when."

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