They say that more is more, but in the fashion world, that’s not necessarily true.
Capsule collections, basic ranges and trends like Quiet Luxury dictate that fashion needn’t been OTT to make a statement. While unpalatable to many, opting to go without has taken on a whole new sartorial cachet, influencing, or should we say de-influencing, swathes of consumers to rethink their shopping habits.
Cue underconsumption core, the trend bringing the bare minimum to the forefront of social media. Kickstarted on TikTok, the movement is a rebellion against clothing hauls, ‘what’s in my handbag’ clips and colourful closet tours.
Think streamlined wardrobes, near-empty bathroom shelves and a makeup bag so slight it may as well be a Jacquemus Le Chiquito.
Although the ongoing battle between maximalists and minimalists ensues, underconsumption core remains in latter's corner, encouraging all to shop less and shop better.
What is Underconsumption Core?
In essence, underconsumption core refers to the essentials only - buying what you actually need rather than what you want.
The trend isn’t restricted to fashion. While clothing plays a big role in the movement, both interiors and beauty can also tap into underconsumption core. Bedrooms without the added texture of cushions, throws and rugs for example. Beauty cupboards minus the highlighters, mega eyeshadow palettes and thousands of brushes you rarely use. Scrap the trinkets and the tat and hey presto, you’re an underconsumption core expert.
Colour palettes are an important factor whatever the genre of underconsumption core. Think calming neutrals - whites, browns and greys. Earth tones reign supreme, with the occasional pop of faded black to remind you that, yes, this is still fashion, even if it pretends not to care. It’s the aesthetic of someone who shops at thrift stores not for the Y2K vintage find but for the purest, plainest T-shirt they can dig up for as little dough as possible.
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Make no mistake, this trend is not supposed to be chic. While TikTok has a way of glamorising the stripped-back approach to consumerism, underconsumption core is less capsule wardrobe and more "I only own three pairs of socks and a pair of Converse,” but said with a hint of a smirk.
When did Underconsumption Core go viral?
The buzz surrounding underconsumption core started in late July, however only now are the social media moguls catching on.
Yet, as with all trends, the fad hasn’t gone unscathed. Criticised for being inherently performative by some and classist by others, the latest core on the block poses some socio-economic issues.
Deemed tone deaf due to glamorising living basically, which is a reality rather than a choice for many, the trend has to be dealt with delicately. Especially during a cost of living crisis and looming recession.
However, it's also giving a platform for creators on a lower working income to document their lifestyles, making way for a new era of realism in the fickle content creation world. Plus, it champions sustainability, pleading with buyers to recycle, rewear and mend their beloved pieces from shoes to coats and accessories. Considering that approximately 100 billion garments are produced by the fashion industry every year with as much as 92 million tonnes of clothing ending up in landfills according to one report, this is certainly no bad thing.
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Underconsumption core is a rebellion against the maximalist chaos of modern life. Whether you consider it grossly performative or sweet relief from lavish influencer hauls, the trend has ruffled some feathers. And isn’t that what fashion is all about?
