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Chic Critique: How thong boots revived anti-chic style

H! Fashion's Tania Leslau deliberates the peep-toe boot splitting opinion among the style set

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Fashion features writer
October 13, 2024

Unless I’m reclined horizontally by a beach in my favourite Fruity Booty bikini with a book in hand, I typically do my damndest not to get my toes out.

Simply put, I can’t be bothered with maintaining a flawless pedicure. Not to mention I’ve sprained both my ankles enough times to know that open-toe heels are not my friend. 

So, when I saw that thong boots were trending, my brain automatically rebuffed the thought. Not only are the divisive zip-ups impractical, but they are clearly made for influencers who have enough time to trot off to Townhouse on a weekly basis. Personally, not my bag. 

open toe boots black© Getty
AW23
© Getty
AW23
© Getty
AW23

Thong boots were unmissable during fashion month. A bold fusion of a thong sandal and knee-high boot with a sleek leather construction, an open-toe design, and a slender stiletto heel, the kickers are quite the statement piece. 

Pioneered by Miu Miu, who debuted the avant-garde design in its spring/summer 2024 collection, the boots come in two silhouettes, knee-high and ankle-skimming, and are typically cut from buttery black or caramel-hued leather. 

© Imaxtree
Miu Miu SS23
© Imaxtree
Jacquemus SS24

FKA Twigs, Bella Hadid, and Emily Ratajkowski hit the Miu Miu runway in the shoes, which have also been sported by house muses Sydney Sweeney and Emma Corrin. Rita Ora took the hybrid model for a street style spin in January 2023, while Kylie Jenner revived the toe-baring look in March 2024. 

The boots’ A-lister lure made me question whether I was missing something. Are the shoes so quirky that only celebrities can get away with wearing them? Do I resist because of my podiatric insecurities? Is this just a me problem?

Following a thong boot-induced existential crisis, I finally saw the bigger picture. While they may exist as a fleeting trend, coveted by cool-girls with a penchant for shock sartorials, the shoes represent the never-ending captivation with ugly-chic. 

With the rise of social media, fashion has developed a viral edge, amplifying the impact of polarising pieces. Bold, controversial designs now thrive in an online landscape where instant reactions and hot takes fuel their popularity, turning divisive styles into conversation starters and driving them to the forefront of cultural trends.

© Getty
Rita Ora
© Getty
Emily Ratajkowski
© Getty
FKA Twigs

Cue thong boots, which erected the great wall of China between lovers and haters overnight. High fashion quickly embraced the silhouette, including Givenchy, Jacquemus and Y/Project. Clearly not designed for soggy Londoners who face drizzle on the reg, the skin-showing boots were a hit among those living it up on the California coast or Côte d'Azur as September settled in.

They became 2024’s most unlikely trend. “The Miu Miu open toe stretch boots. Now that’s more like it,” wrote one user on X (formerly known as Twitter), while another countered “Hideous. Ugly.”

Fusing Grace Jones energy with influencer hype, thong boots challenged traditional seasonal fashion norms, upsetting the reign of ‘Quiet Luxury’ pioneers one toe at a time.

Futuristic, controversial and overtly ironic, the disruptive heel is clearly here for a good time, not a long time. After all, if they’re anything like classic flip flops, then they’d probably start to rub after a while. 

They’re not my cup of tea, but at least they’re not boring - because in fashion, the only real faux pas is being forgettable.

How to wear thong boots:

© Getty
With a white shirt dress, a navy blue wool pullover and a white handbag
© Getty
With a sheer dress or skirt and a leather jacket
© Getty
With a black dress layered over a white long sleeve
© Getty
With a faded leather look and braids

How I would style thong boots:


  • TOP: DÔEN Ingrid Blouse, £365, NET-A-PORTER
  • SKIRT: Self-Portrait Denim Flared Midi Skirt, £180, HARRODS
  • BAG: Cow Leather Shoulder Bag, £99.99, MANGO
  • SHOES: Miu Miu Thong Boots, £1,550, MYTHERESA

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