While fashion and Trump may seem like unlikely counterparts, his policies have a direct impact on the industry’s future.
Last week, CNBC reported that: “Trump has said he would impose a 10 per cent or 20 per cent tariff on all imports across the board.” For goods manufactured in China, tariffs could skyrocket to an astonishing 60 per cent or even 100 per cent.
Although the entire supply chain will feel the impact, fashion brands that rely on imports, particularly apparel, will bear the brunt of these financial shifts. This poses a major concern for the industry, as nearly 98 per cent of clothing is produced beyond US borders. Even garments labelled ‘Made in the USA’ often have ties to international supply chains, with fabrics and components sourced largely from Asia. The result? A potentially seismic shift in the way fashion operates on a global scale.
© Getty ImagesThere are two things that can happen here. Either brands increase the cost of their clothing or cut corners to produce cheaper garments - AKA compromising ethical working conditions for garment workers and sacrificing the quality of collections.
While many are concerned this will prompt mass (highly unnecessary) shopping sprees before the tariff kicks into full effect, others are hoping it will dissuade consumers from purchasing items from brands who stock poorly-crafted clothing.
“White women everywhere who’ve been complaining that Lululemon has recently had a drop in quality - brace up - it’s about to drop again and prices are gonna rise,” penned one X user in response to the news. Another said: “There’s no tariffs on vintage clothing that’s for sure.”
The general consensus is that shopping secondhand and resale will help avoid the fallout of Trump’s tariffs. Peer-to-peer selling via Depop, Vinted or Vestiaire keeps the cash out of the pockets of fast fashion brands, but some believe this is simply putting a plaster on a gaping wound.
“To be honest, the state of sustainability in the fashion industry is so dire that I don’t think [the tariffs] are going to make it any worse,” says Orsolo De Castro, author and co-founder of Fashion Revolution. “I don't think that shopping secondhand is necessarily a solution at this point. Of course it's better, but nonetheless we’re swapping one addiction for another.”
“The tariffs may make brands like Shein more expensive for the American customer and that is no bad thing. But I don't necessarily believe that they will encourage best practice. Certainly not affordable best practice. We really do need to encourage a sustainable fashion that is affordable and available for most customers. We know that the small and independent brands cannot reach that customer half the time.”
© Getty ImagesNaturally, the shift to locally-produced garments seems like a viable option, but as De Castro highlights, locally-made doesn't promise a better quality life for the workers who create the clothes.
There’s a chance that Trump, AKA the man who earlier this week signed an order shifting the US back toward plastic straws and withdrew from the Paris Agreement, an agreement between 195 nations to cut their greenhouse gas emissions, might put pedal to the metal on fast fashion.
“I would have thought that a Trump administration would probably try and compete with the super fast fashion brands rather than create a thriving economy based on sustainability and ethics,” De Castro adds. “For some reason there is some sort of branding mismatch with that.” A stomach-churning thought indeed.
At this point you’re probably thinking, but how are Trump’s tariffs relevant to us Brits? Well, you best believe they are.
“Many UK sustainable and independent fashion brands rely on direct-to-consumer (DTC) models to reach international markets like the US,” says Esther Knight, founder and CEO at Fanfare Label. “ Without the 'de minimis' exception, selling to US customers could become less competitive due to added costs, potentially reducing demand. Additionally, Brexit has already made shipping to the EU more difficult and expensive for UK brands, pushing many to focus on the US market instead. However, with similar tariffs and fees now affecting shipments to the US, expanding internationally is becoming increasingly challenging for UK fashion brands.”
One modus operandi stands out as the best solution for both brands and customers - better than buying sustainably (if you believe the concept exists at all) or shopping resale. And that is customisation.
© @ravereview“With tariffs bringing prices up, with sustainable fashion not being able to cut through, with customers not knowing where to find sustainable fashion, with people not being able to afford it, the message on mending and above all maintaining,” says De Castro. “The whole world of customisation - customised couture - mending, repairing, community events to teach such skills, schools embracing sewing in the curricula, that indeed is a massive opportunity. It’s the most revolutionary opportunity. It’s the most rebellious opportunity - where you’re mending with protest with protest in mind.”
Customisation is also a tactic Knight embraces: “Reducing reliance on new materials by repurposing deadstock fabrics can help offset higher costs while lowering environmental impact. At Fanfare Label, we use reclaimed denim to create new designs, which minimises waste and supply chain dependency.”
For fashion lovers, this could be achieved simply by popping into your local dry cleaners, who can mend clothes by sewing up small tears, patching holes, and reinforcing weak seams. They also offer alterations like hemming, adjusting waistbands, replacing broken zips, replacing missing buttons, reattach loose embellishments and refreshing worn-out fabrics to extend the life of your garments.
Sustainable fashion activists have long felt like they have been screaming into the abyss, watching the peers flock to fast fashion brands in spite of the ongoing climate conundrum. Yet, if we can shout from the rooftops that patching up your old jeans, upcycling a worn-out T-shirt or repurposing your prom dress is a subtle act of mutiny against the president, then maybe, just maybe, people will listen.
Yes, it’s making the best out of a bad situation and there is a chance it could get worse. Yet, there’s some solace in knowing that your local seamstress holds power over Trump - and that is the kernel of hope the world so desperately needs.
How to customise your clothes:
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© Getty ImagesHow I would customise my outfit:
A crafty look concocted from one-of-a-kind pieces to inspire those at the start of their customisation journey. The patchwork hoodie hails from Swedish label Rave Review, who champion upcycling in all they do. Likewise the jeans, by Fanfare Label, have been made using divine deadstock denim and exemplify how chic patchworking can be. The bag is a gem from Roop, another independant house that utilises deadstock for it's charming accessories collections. Shoes may require a cobbler when it comes to zhuzhing, so I've opted for these preloved mint Chanel flats which will never go out of style.
- HOODIE: Devon Zip Hoodie Exclusive, £245, RAVE REVIEW
- JEANS: High Waisted Upcycled Oversized Wide Leg Jeans, £189, FANFARE LABEL
- BAG: Maisie Bag, £152, ROOP
- SHOES: Chanel Leather Ballet Flats, £430, VESTIAIRE
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