Wedding dress stress is the Olympics of decision fatigue. One dress, one moment, one chance to not look like an inflatable satin meringue in front of your nearest and dearest. Cue the existential crisis.
Like all branches of fashion, wedding dresses are inextricably bound to the trends cycle. Extravagant lace-trimmed puff sleeves, cathedral trains and frizzed coiffures Bon Jovi would approve of dominated the Eighties. Mini silhouettes, A-line structures and sweetheart-meets space-age themes defined the Sixties bride. Heavy embellishments, body-sculpting mermaid tail trims and bling-on-bling à la Say Yes To The Dress gripped Noughties nuptials. You get the picture.
Hence, brides-to-be are often left to weigh up the pros and cons of opting for a trend-led gown over a more traditional alternative.
© Phillipa LepleyH! Fashion spoke with couture wedding dress designer Phillipa Lepley, renowned British wedding dress and eveningwear designer, to preempt the wedding dress trends that are set to be hotter-than-haute this year.
What trends do you think will be popular in 2025?
We are noticing an increasing number of brides choosing 'Watteau trains.' This style features the train attached at the shoulders or upper back of the dress instead of the waist. It gives a cape-like look that silhouettes and frames and follows the bride as she walks. Watteau trains can vary in length and width, ranging from a gentle sweep to a dramatic cathedral length.
More brides are opting to include a subtle splash of colour through a meaningful, personalised piece of embroidery on their dress, such as on the back or train. This could showcase their favourite flower, initials, or wedding logo in shades of pale pink, gold, or blue, with blue emerging as the new favourite. Personalisation really has become BIG.
© Phillipa Lepley‘Cartouches’ are also becoming more popular in our atelier. A cartouche is an ornamental design typically framed in an oval or oblong shape, featuring a hidden message, wedding logo, family crest, or date inside. Some brides are opting to place a personalised cartouche discreetly inside the lining of the dress, while others are featuring them prominently on their veil or train
Long sleeves are trending, particularly in soft, sheer fabrics that are elegant, floaty and light. Square necklines are also in vogue, along with more fitted dresses that incorporate fewer petticoats.
Has there been any shift away from traditional designs? Are brides becoming more creative in today's age?
Brides are becoming more and more creative with their special unique design details, but this does not necessarily mean they are becoming less traditional. We work with some brides who do want a very classic, timeless look - what some people could call a more traditional design, however they still do often choose to add something special and surprising, like a splash of colour, a bespoke embellishment or some colourful embroidery on their dress or veil.
© Phillipa Lepley
© Phillipa LepleyA lot of brides come to us because they want the fit to be just perfect (with a fabulous corset etc) and they want the best couture experience. They may end up choosing a dress that is on-trend, without that being their intention. Our clean dresses are fabulous for modern brides, with breath-takingly beautiful silhouettes that are striking and feminine. Ultimately, we carry a varied collection for everyone. A wedding dress designer needs to design a variety.
What do you predict will be the biggest wedding dress trend in the next few years?
I think personalisation will remain the leading trend in the premium market. An increasing number of individuals are inspired to collaborate with skilled designers and expert artisans to develop innovative concepts and unique symbols. I see more freedom and inspiration from increasingly creative brides, which is very exciting and a pleasure for us all.
What would you suggest to a bride wanting a wedding look that's not a classic wedding dress?
Take your time to find a dress that is right for you. Try on everything and leave all your preconceived ideas at the door. The ‘wild card’ may well be the one, and it may not be what you had expected. Listen to your instincts and don’t try to set yourself any limitations based on what you had thought before this moment would feel right.
© Phillipa LepleyTry on dresses of all lengths, with varying trains, skirts, sleeves and necklines. You may end up falling in love with a very classic dress, but then choose to add some quirky balloon sleeves, an oversized bow, a Watteau train or a dash of colour.
How have celebrity weddings influenced recent wedding dress trends?
Royal and celebrity weddings play a huge part in what becomes desirable – this has been the case for hundreds of years. In recent times, I think various celebrities have certainly inspired quite a few of our brides to consider wearing more than one special dress over the course of the few days of celebrations. They have also inspired sprawling trains and voluminous skirts, as well as classic timeless looks
Are colourful wedding dresses becoming more popular, or is white still dominant?
Ivory is the most popular, as well as white and ivory and blush. Dashes of floral embellished colours are popular too.
How has the trend of multiple wedding looks (ceremony, reception, after-party) evolved?
We do help a number of our international brides to create more than one look. That said, the majority still want to wear one dress from the start to the end of their special day, even if there is an element of changing that look, adding or taking away a layer when evening comes.
© Phillipa Lepley
© Phillipa LepleyAre vintage-inspired dresses making a comeback, and if so, which eras are most popular?
The Fifites and Thirties always play an inspirational role, and we see looks across lots of our brides’ Pinterest pages
How are designers embracing gender-fluid and non-traditional bridal fashion to better reflect queer identities?
We design for each individual person and for their body – that is our starting point. We love working with clients to identify the shapes they want to accentuate and define their shape. Bespoke two pieces and trouser suits continue to be popular. Designers are becoming increasingly aware of individuality and the importance of this, which is so possible and the very essence in fact of couture, on a day-to-day basis. A bride should know she can have exactly what she wants on her wedding day.
