Italian luxury fashion house Bulgari has announced the appointment of London-based Greek designer Mary Katrantzou, as its first ever creative director of leather goods and accessories.
“The rich cultural heritage and dual Greco-Roman roots of Bulgari have played an integral part in my formation as a designer,” Mary says of the new role. “I’ve always been inspired by the design codes and syncretism of Bulgari, its mastery of colours and the depth of narrative. I’m deeply honoured to be leading the creative vision for this new chapter and elevating everyday life into a form of art,” adds the designer, who is often dubbed, 'The Queen of Prints'.
In September 2019, I was lucky enough to be invited to Athens to see the Mary Katrantzou SS20 couture show, which nearing sunset was staged at the Temple of Poseidon, Cape Sounion.
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It was an incredible spectacle marking the first time a Greek government has permitted such an event at the historic landmark built in 440 BC. The collection was accessorised with Bulgari heritage high jewellery pieces - Mary’s first collaboration with the brand.
In 2021, Mary was invited to join the ‘Serpenti through the eyes of’ series, which saw her reimagine Bulgari’s best-selling Serpenti Forever bag, which has been worn by Emma Roberts, Miranda Kerr, Olivia Palermo, Rosario Dawson and January Jones. “I believe the Serpenti represents metamorphosis, and it's a process that we all go through in life – whether you're a woman or a man, you kind of shed your skin like a snake does, and there's a rebirth that happens through that,” Mary told Hello! Fashion last year.
From there, building on the relationship between the two fashion houses, Mary worked on a second capsule collection elevating the much-loved bag with embroideries that were inspired by Bulgari’s high jewellery and watch collections. “I love a statement accessory. I always love highlighting what you wear with strong statement pieces in jewellery and the handbag you carry," Mary explained at the time, "Sometimes these pieces are even more important in the statement than what you choose to wear."
She continued, "Growing up in Greece, I have huge respect for Bulgari as a brand and understanding its codes. I think the love that they have for bold jewellery, designs and a strong narrative is something that is very much in common with how I like to draw inspiration. It's always very important to me that there's an element of storytelling because pieces that make a bold statement allow the wearer to express themselves, so I think we talk to similar women and we design for a similar woman."
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Following the success of the two collections, Mary, who’s AW09 debut runway collection at London Fashion Week featured dresses with printed perfume bottles engineered around the female figure, designed the Bulgari Omnia perfume bottle and scent, in collaboration with master perfumer Alberto Morillas. Incidentally Beyoncé wore a bespoke surrealist perfume bottle dress for her Renaissance World Tour performance in London.
“Mary’s arrival as leather goods and accessories creative director makes us very proud,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari CEO. “Mary shares with Bulgari not only the Greek origins, but above all the search for excellence in the choice of materials, the way in which they are transformed with a particular emphasis on craftsmanship and a passionate love for colours. We are certain that what we are starting with this visionary designer is a path full of success.”
