Georgian designer David Koma has been appointed creative director of Blumarine.
The London-based designer, celebrated for his bold silhouettes, sharp lines and innovative use of latex, joins the Italian fashion house following the departure of former creative director Walter Chiapponi in March after one season. Koma is set to debut his first collection for pre-fall 2025 in May/June next year.
The Central Saint Martins graduate launched his eponymous brand back in 2009. Now boasting a high profile clientele including Beyoncé, Maya Jama, Kylie Minogue and Sabrina Elba, the visionary will pivot to tap into the distinctive Blumarine aesthetic.
© Gareth CattermoleCandy-pop colourways, Y2k diamante detailing, Marabou feather trims and ruffles galore have become signature house codes across the years. Romantic motifs are typically incorporated into each and every feminine garment, materialising in the form of vintage-inspired fabrics, fur linings, pastel sequins or rosettes.
The brand ascended up the fashion ranks under the creative direction of Nicola Brognano, who helmed the house from 2019 to 2023. Brognano’s leadership oversaw Y2K themes infuse collections, with low-slung jeans, internet-adored butterfly tops and studded fabrics coming to the forefront of the runway. Think America’s Next Top Model meets Paris Hilton circa 2003.
Brognano’s exit from the brand in October 2023 catapulted Blumarine into disarray. Walter Chiapponi, who previously held the role of creative director of Tod’s, stepped into the hot seat, taking on Blumarine’s head honcho role.
Moving away from the default girlish glamour of the party-girl house, Chiapponi championed more streamlined, classic garments, a move that was met with criticism for lack of brand authenticity and coherence.
What to expect from David Koma at Blumarine? Naturally, creative directors inject collections with personal sartorial trademarks, so we’d expect to see bigger and better florals from cascading trains to corsage detailing, sculptural cut-outs, sweetheart necklines and beglittered Studio 54-inspired decadence.
Koma’s penchant for mini, sculpting silhouettes would lean neatly into Blumarine’s ultra-feminine mood board, as would gradient sequin designs and ostrich feather plumes.
As for the rest? That is for Koma to know and us to find out.
