Chic Critique: Poring over polka dots

Hello! Fashion's Tania Leslau delivers her verdict on the design driving everyone dotty

Fashion features writer

Updated: August 11, 2024Aug 11, 2024, 10:21 AM GMT+1

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Polka dots are the flirty fling fashion simply can't stay away from.

Like a problematic ex, the spotted print can never quite leave our mind. An on-again, off-again faux pas, the print is tricky to conquer. Do we dare go back there? They say to let sleeping dogs lie. But, whoever they are clearly hasn’t seen Miu Miu’s AW23 runway collection.

Polka dots are endlessly adaptable, hence their longevity in the trends cycle. Yet, there’s no denying they present a make-or-break sartorial situation. Worn well, and the timeless print can serve up sophistication by the bucket load. Worn badly and you run the risk of looking disastrously cheugy.

The past few years have witnessed a resurgence of polka dots. Versace’s ‘La Vacanza’ collection co-designed by Dua Lipa married twee spots with Y2K butterflies. Saint Laurent infused its rock ‘n’ roll moodboard with tulle swathes of all-over discs, tickling the fancy of Lila Moss. Dolce & Gabbana rehashed its signature spotted print for SS24, transforming the once-dud dot into a sultry picture of romance via transparent designs and ethereal silhouettes. Miu Miu’s sheer pieces, debuted by Mia Goth, held Gen Z in a polka choke. Polka dots went from Fifties prom to pined after.

Kendall Jenner has sported several polka prints from dresses to co-ords — Kendall Jenner in Proenza Schouler

The celebrity sphere was quick to dial in. Elsa Hosk incorporated dotty designs into her Scandi street style via Saks Potts and Réalisation Par. Emily Ratajkowski brought polka dots into the drawing room when conjuring up new collections for her swimwear brand Inamorata. Kendall Jenner sported a spotted Bec & Bridge mini while out in Beverley Hills. The list goes on.

This affinity for polka dots is nothing new. Princess Diana’s iconic 1988 Ascot attire paid testament to the longevity of polka dots, a moment recreated later by the Princess of Wales in Alessandra Rich. The polka dot dress became an onscreen staple, courtesy of Julia Roberts’ tawny frock in Pretty Woman, Marilyn Monroe’s Travilla number in The Seven Year Itch and Sophia Loren in That Kind of Woman. The divisive designs came to represent Hollywood's golden girls in all their glory.

So where do we stand on the humble print today? The style set has spoken, reclaiming the dot until it inevitably falls out of favour once again.

I have to admit, I was never a fan. I thought the print was unimaginative. Bland at the best of times and lazy at the worst. Yet, its recent resurrection has swayed me. In an age dominated by trends, a touch of permanence, being the inevitability of the polka dot, is a welcome relief.

Plus, one can't deny the ultra-femininity of the pattern. As demonstrated most patently by Miu Miu, the merging of airy sheer with polka dots has breathed new life into the antiquated design. Polka dots have regained their cutesy persona, inviting all to try the trend with a sprinkling of confetti charm and whimsy sex appeal.

MORE: 9 timeless polka dot dresses to wear this season & beyond

MORE: Why Kate Middleton now wears polka dots to major events explained

The print’s true magic lies in its penchant for comebacks. In a world obsessed with the next big thing, polka dots remind us that some things never go out of style - they just reinvent themselves.