Denim trends frequently cycle through various silhouettes, from slouchy and flared jeans to the resurgence of Noughties low-rise styles. Yet, as we increasingly seek timeless, high-quality capsule pieces, our approach to shopping for denim is evolving.
Today, we're prioritising fabric over fleeting trends, and that’s where selvedge denim enters the equation.
What is selvedge denim?
Selvedge denim is synonymous with its durability and untreated fabric, with loyal wearers taking it upon themselves to break in their trousers and even refrain from washing them. Aside from its rigid structure, selvedge can be easily recognised by its deep indigo shade courtesy of the denim's concentrated dye, and their signature ID – a line of coloured thread adorned along the edges.
The name selvedge derives from the vintage shuttle looms used to weave the fabric into a smooth finish without frayed edges due to their looser weaving quality.
Where did selvedge denim originate from?
The same shuttle looms were used when the fabric peaked in the '50s, with Hollywood rebels like James Dean popularising denim jeans into mainstream culture. However, with the rise in demand came new technology and the slow shuttle looms were swept to the side in favour of modern machines that couldn't create the same solid silhouette as they put more pressure on the yarn.
Thanks to a range of iconic brands, including Evisu and Studio D'Artisan – collectively dubbed the 'Osaka Five' – selvedge denim experienced a resurgence in the late '80s and early '90s. These Japanese brands aimed to label the country as the world’s leading producer of selvedge denim – and they succeeded.
By echoing the aesthetic of vintage denim in their designs and drawing from the non-confirming boldness of the stars that would birth New Hollywood, the brands paved the way for selvedge denim to once more penetrate the fashion industry. Today, Kojima is the go-to location for the production of quality denim, with Kaihara being one of the leading manufacturers.
How to style selvedge denim?
The denim's structured fit makes it the ideal piece to create a bold, statement silhouette in any outfit. An array of contemporary fits are available on the market, with wide-leg and slouchy styles among those putting fashion-enthusiasts in a choke hold this spring.
The simple designs ooze '90s minimal and will pair perfectly with a basic white T-shirt that complements the deep indigo hue. We recommend keeping with earthy tones when building your ensemble - think khaki and brown accessorises.
If you're looking to channel your inner '50s rocker, pair your jeans with an oversized leather bomber and a stylish pair of black patent leather loafers. Double denim is also never a bad idea, perhaps team your dark wash jeans with a matching denim jacket to exude casual chic.
Those wanting a colour statement should opt for a pair of Evisu selvedge jeans, with the brand's iconic log emblem embossed onto the back pockets in a variety of colours from bold red to quirky orange. For a modern edge, match the embellished logo with a pair of Salomon XT6 trainers.
Where to shop selvedge denim?
Today, selvedge is widely available to shop from a variety of outlets at different price points. The fabric has even been transformed into stretchier iterations with a slew of denim washes to choose from – core indigo, black, white, and even khaki. From artisanal Japanese labels to high fashion brands, discover the best selvedge jeans to rock this spring.
How we chose:
- Style: We've chosen a range of stylish selvedge denim pieces for you to pick from.
- Price: This guide features a range of prices to suit all budgets, no matter how big or small.
HELLO!'s selection is editorial and independently chosen – we only feature items our editors love and approve of. HELLO! may collect a share of sales or other compensation from the links on this page. To find out more visit our FAQ page.