Set amid the rolling hills and lush vineyards of south-west France, the Château de Saint-Denis is serenely beautiful, the classical symmetry of its architecture softened by warm, creamy stone. It has been the beloved home of the de Bastard family for generations, ever since they arrived here from Brittany 400 years ago.
Devoted to managing the region’s rich natural resources on behalf of the King rather than to waging war, they designed their château “not as a fortress, but as a place built for pleasure”, according to the current Baron, Arnaud de Bastard, who inherited it in 2016.
And as he and his Baroness, Anne, welcome us with their children Alain, Sibylle and Florianne, as well as grandchildren Raphaëlle and Timothée, they’re delighted to share Saint-Denis’s story and look forward to fulfilling new chapters ahead.
Baron Arnaud, which of your ancestors built this beautiful château?
"My great-great-grandfather, Edouard de Bastard, constructed it in the 1850s on the site of a smaller building dating from the 17th century. He was married to Elaïs, sister of the mayor of the nearby city of Bordeaux."
What can you tell us about the architecture?
"It was the work of a famous Bordeaux architect, Jean Burguet, who designed many civic buildings in the mid-19th century."
Could you explain the origins of the de Bastard family?
"My ancestors can be traced back to the tenth century, when they owned land and castles in Brittany. Over time, they moved south, and several became Grand Masters of Waters and Forests, administering these resources on behalf of the King in this region, which was known back then as the province of Guyenne and Gascony. They settled in Saint-Denis because it was right in the heart of the land.
"Then, later, during the 19th century reign of Napoleon III, some of my forebears rose to hold positions in national government."
Have any royal guests stayed here?
"In 1970, we hosted Otto of Habsburg, Archduke of Austria, when he came to attend a conference."
Could you share any anecdotes about life at Saint-Denis?
"My grandfather Jean de Bastard loved his food, including the very good café Liégeois dessert they served at the station buffet in Agen, about six miles from Saint-Denis. When he rode over there in his carriage, he would often fall asleep on the way. That was no problem: the horse, knowing his master’s habits well, would simply trot him straight to the restaurant.
"On another of Jean’s outings, this time by car, he met the village butcher’s van coming the other way across a narrow bridge over the River Garonne. It was impossible for both to cross at the same time, so, making the most of his aristocratic status, my grandfather called to the butcher: 'I am the Baron de Bastard: I have priority, let me pass.'
"But the butcher, who was called Monsieur Ducourneau, would have none of it. He went one better, firing back: 'And I am the Duc Ourneau – you make way for me!'"
Now that your children are grown up, this must make a wonderful place for family gatherings...
"Yes, we get together here whenever we can. Our children, who are based in Paris, Barcelona, Biarritz and Toulouse, come back to celebrate the holidays with us. Although we all enjoy those festive moments very much, they’re too rare."
"But we also welcome friends from all over France, who are always delighted to enjoy the surroundings here. We’ve organised themed parties for up to 300 people; the house lends itself perfectly to that, both in summer and winter."
One of Saint-Denis's charms is its collection of antique carriages...
"Yes, and that’s really grown over the centuries. We’ve got a whole variety of styles, such as cabriolets and phaetons. They were once used for all sorts of everyday needs, but unfortunately, they can’t be driven now. We’ve turned the upper level of the stables into a museum and they’re on display there."
What’s your favourite room or corner of the château?
"When I have time, I immerse myself in the intimate, old-world atmosphere of the library. There I steep myself in the story of my ancestors by reading their letters, as well as browsing books about geography, history and – since many held public office – also legal matters.
"I’m also proud of the women of our dynasty, and have commemorated them by cataloguing all the drawings and paintings they created."
The house is decorated with many amazing works of art. Which ones stand out for you?
"The principal staircase is illuminated by a lovely stained-glass skylight made by a master glazier from Lorraine. Visitors also especially appreciate the two tapestries created by the world-renowned Aubusson workshops."
What improvements have you and the Baroness made, and what plans do you have?
"When we moved in eight years ago, we embarked on a full restoration. My wife came up with the concept and we’ve chosen highly skilled craftsmen who are bringing it all to life.
"Anne and I also really enjoy looking after the wooded grounds, where the trees include cedar, pine, oak, lime, maple, magnolia and ginkgo biloba. Many of the trees are centuries old, but we’ve been able to add lots of new ones ourselves."