As excitement builds in the run-up to the coronation of the King and Queen Consort next month, HELLO! has been behind the scenes at Hampton Court Palace to take a close-up look at three pieces from the royal ceremonial dress collection – including one that has never been seen by the public.
"The collection is not necessarily very well known, but it is a very important collection and it’s quite a specific collection," says curator Matthew Storey, who has worked at the palace for over eight years. "We're not just looking at a fashionable dress, but the stories that clothing can tell us about the royal family." See the full behind-the-scenes look in the video below.
One fascinating item is the toile, or prototype, of the white-and-gold dress Queen Elizabeth (later the Queen Mother) wore to her husband George VI's coronation in 1937, when she was crowned his Queen.
The gown, created by Her Majesty’s favourite designer of the day, Madame Handley-Seymour, is adorned with the same emblems that are seen on the final dress – including flowers from the nations of the United Kingdom and the Empire – but on the toile, they were pencil and gold paint.
"This gown was how the designer worked out the cut, fit and design of the dress, before she cut into the expensive satin that she was going to use. So you can see the tacking stitches and even a rusty pin from 1937," Matthew says.
"I imagine that the Queen Mother would have been in the studio – or perhaps at Buckingham Palace, because designers often come to royalty at the palace – giving her opinion and working out what would fit, so she would be comfortable on the day."
Another piece, which is more than 200 years old, was worn by Du Pré Alexander, 2nd Earl of Caledon, when he attended the coronation of George IV in 1821. The King was known for his love of luxury – a quality perfectly embodied by this lavish gold-and-white ensemble, which will go on display at the Tower of London from 26 May.
Pointing to a number of stains on the glamorous outfit, Matthew tells us: "Our top theory is that these came from the coronation banquet in Westminster Hall – we know it was a messy and quite riotous occasion. There are stories of people having to dodge dripping hot wax coming from the chandeliers."
"I like to think this is possibly a clue to that amazing event. And it's worth saying that they never hosted another banquet in Westminster Hall after that one," he adds.
The final piece is a charming dress worn by a little girl to the Queen's coronation in 1953. The endearing Lindsay Maid piece, kindly donated by the owner, has never been on public display.
"I love this because the pattern is coronation-themed," Matthew says. "On the bottom, you can see a coronation procession; you've got Buckingham Palace, you’ve got a carriage and you’ve even got the Queen on her throne.
"It shows how an event like a coronation can create a sense of national unity. In 1953, that was very important. People had come through a period of austerity and rationing, so the coronation was a chance for them to look to the future and come together.”
But how have these fragile historical garments been preserved so well, and for so long? "I have an amazing team of conservators who are absolute experts in their field," Matthew says.
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"We keep everything here at Hampton Court, in acid-free boxes wrapped in acid-free archival paper. If the garment is strong enough to hang up, [we do so in] conservation-grade bags.
"The stores have no light, we monitor them for temperature and humidity, and we keep a close eye on bugs because the last thing you want is moths coming for your historic collection."
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