Le Farnatchi roof terrace featured in Riads of Marrakech' by Elan Fleisher© Elan Fleisher

I stayed in the heart of Marrakech's medina at Le Farnatchi – and it was paradise

The riad is a rare find in the middle of Marrakech's historic walled city

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Lifestyle Managing Editor
August 22, 2023

If you're heading to Marrakech this autumn, you need to put Le Farnatchi on your list. The picture-perfect boutique hotel takes the authentic riad experience and elevates it to the next level – high-end luxury with a personal touch and above all, impeccable service.

The beautiful venue is expertly run by the friendly and attentive James Wix, a British native who has been living in Morocco for years. Now in its 20th year, Le Farnatchi has perfected its tourist offering, making it the ultimate destination for those seeking a private oasis in the heart of the historic medina.

© Elan Fleisher

Le Farnatchi is a boutique hotel with a difference, located right in the heart of Marrakech's medina

When I say in the heart of the souks, I really mean it – on our first day, we spent a full 50 minutes trying to make our way from the buzzing Jemaa el-Fnaa square back to the hidden cobbled street the hotel is located on. The pink-walled old city truly is a maze. But the madness of the outside world melts away the second you step through the door into the private sanctuary of Le Farnatchi.

Le Farnatchi's accommodation

Built around a serene central courtyard with a plunge pool, Le Farnatchi is a maze of individual rooms, explained by the fact the hotel has added on extra accommodation from nearby riads as time goes on. Dating back 450 years, the space has been impeccably adapted to create a private haven for guests.

The boutique hotel is ideal for couples with ten impeccably designed suites, each with its own identity and unique décor. I stayed in Suite 8, located on the top floor via a winding staircase. Behind the private door lay a generous space with the additional advantage of a private patio featuring an olive tree as well as a balcony overlooking the main pool.

© Alan Keohane

I stayed in Suite 8, which featured a cosy living room complete with a reading nook and fireplace

Handmade furniture and beautiful rugs and cushions sourced from local tradespeople gave the room a truly authentic feel. The ornate fireplace and spacious seating area plus a cosy reading nook made me think the hotel would be equally wonderful to visit in winter.

The bathroom was just as special; a sunken marble bathtub, his and hers vanities, a separate toilet and an adjoining open shower made it a blissful space to retreat to from the 100-mile-a-minute souks.

© Alan Keohane

The boutique hotel is now in its 20th year and prides itself on offering five-star luxury with a personal touch

The main takeaway from my experience at Le Farnatchi was how intimate everything felt. I've never experienced five-star luxury in such a unique and private setting before, with the kind-hearted staff going above and beyond to make my stay as comfortable as possible.

One of the best perks is the room service approach to everything. In the mood for a drink on the private terrace? Give reception a call and they'll arrange it. There's also no set time for breakfast, meaning you simply call reception and have it delivered anywhere you want – in bed, on your private balcony, on the rooftop terrace, or in the intimate dining room set for 22.

Le Farnatchi's food and drinks

© Elan Fleisher

Breakfast and drinks served on our private roof terrace were the highlight of my stay

A stay at Le Farnatchi isn't complete without a sunset cocktail on the private roof terrace. We felt like the only people in the world as we watched the dust-clouded sunset dip over the Atlas mountains on our first night in Marrakech. The higgledy-piggledy seating with its comfy benches made for the perfect place to enjoy a cocktail while listening to the bustle of the surrounding souks and the call to prayer.

Later that evening, we headed over to Le Trou Au Mur, Le Farnatchi's award-winning restaurant, located just opposite the main entrance to the hotel. The venue is highly popular with tourists and locals alike – and it even featured in our guidebook as a must-visit spot.

© Elan Fleisher

Built around a serene central courtyard with a plunge pool, Le Farnatchi is a maze of individual rooms

I tried the M'rouzia, slow-cooked beef served with almonds, honey in a thick ras el hanout infused sauce, while my husband devoured the Camel Tagina (when in Morocco!) – a flavourful local specialty that had been cooking for hours.

The highlight for us was the starter of fresh Moroccan salads served with bread straight out of the oven, from pumpkin and almond flavours to fresh orange-infused dishes. And the wine – everywhere we went, we had the most delicious local wine; fairly priced, light and fruity. The white in particular was delicious.

© Alan Keohane

Le Farnatchi boasts 10 individually designed suites and an award-winning restaurant, Le Trou Au Mur

The breakfasts in the main hotel were without a doubt my favourite part of the experience. Plated up with incredible care, the feast comprised eggs, a fresh fruit platter, yoghurt, a selection of sugary sweet jams and honey, and a warm bread basket. Savoury, sweet, meat-filled, and spicy, there was a bread for every mood and taste – and we inhaled them all.

Planning the day ahead while sipping on freshly squeezed juice and strong coffee on our private balcony is a memory that will stay with me.

Le Farnatchi's spa

© Alan Keohane

Le Farnatchi's spa is a calming space - and the Hammam was perfection

You can't go to Morocco without trying a Hammam, a weekly ritual for locals that provides the opportunity to catch up with loved ones. Despite my prudish Britishness, I soon got over the fear of being basically naked while a stranger threw buckets of water over me.

Using products from local skincare brands Nectarome and Botanica Marrakech, Le Farnatchi's spa has nailed its brief as a calming oasis away from the hubbub and madness of the medina, open to both hotel and day guests alike.

I tried the Hammam Complete, a deeply relaxing treatment that left me emerging like a newborn baby. Dead skin was scrubbed off thanks to a Khessa glove and a black salt scrub, before a clay mask from the Atlas mountains and a relaxing rose water tonic were applied.

© Elan Fleisher

I never expected to feel so relaxed in the heart of Marrakech's souks

I never expected to stay in the hustle and bustle of Marrakech and feel so relaxed, but Le Farnatchi delivered on all levels.

RELATED: Star travel review: we visited Ben Miller's magical Morocco

To book your stay at Le Farnatchi, visit booking.com

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