I was 19 years old when I first visited Greece – more years ago than I care to remember. At that point, I was footloose and fancy-free - no children to entertain, no aching back to keep me awake – just a backpack, a sleeping bag and my best friend. They were wonderful times and we returned on numerous occasions over the following years – island hopping around the Ionians, lounging on the glorious beaches of Crete.
What would it be like to return, one marriage and two children later? I was keen to still see the same authentic Greece of the 1990s, to have some fun and eat good food - but also to really relax and leave some of life’s complexities behind. Rather than heading to a backpackers’ hostel in the back streets of Athens, I'd be venturing to a five-star resort on the north coast of Crete.
Crete feels like the perfect destination for someone seeking luxury and authenticity in their Greek escape. The largest and most diverse of the Greek Islands, it is steeped in history and famous for its beautiful beaches, fabulous food and the hospitality of its people.
During the straightforward four-hour flight from the UK, I remembered exploring Minoan palaces and dancing in vibrant bars, and wondered if such adventures were still available. I began to picture the consistent 30-degree heat which would nurture our British bones. Little did I know how perfectly Iberostar Creta Marine would meet my needs over the coming days – providing relaxation and authentic hospitality in an area of natural beauty and ancient history.
Iberostar Creta Marine is situated approximately one hour west of Heraklion and approached via a road which is almost entirely coastal. With sparkling sea on the right, and endless glorious olive groves left, the drive is an amazing way to start your visit. As I observed the vibrant bougainvillea tumbling over walls and off balconies, a feeling of joy began to settle on me.
The hotel itself is just about the perfect location. Entered through a grand reception area – all cool marble and wide-open space - the whole place has been recently and brilliantly renovated by Cretan architect Marios Ninos. You step out the other side of reception to find the larger of the two pools, including an over-pool walkway and pool bar.
The whole place feels luscious and rich – all against the view of the bright blue Mediterranean Sea. And then, as the greenery stops and the stone takes over, there are a few steps that lead down (via the fabulous Ouzo bar) to three beautiful little sea coves. And swimming options for everyone – from the individualised pools of some apartments, to the fun of pool bars and aqua entertainment, to the peace of rocky coves, whose crystal-clear waters can be explored by snorkellers.
There's something for everyone's tastes, which becomes incredibly important when travelling with children and young adults – especially when dining is part of the all-inclusive deal. The Dias Buffet restaurant was quite extraordinary. There were a lot of photos taken on that first morning - of honeycomb, nuts and seeds of every description, of colourful fresh fruit and of perfect omelettes being cooked in front of us. And the olive oil bar! Various acidities, multiple blends – a week’s worth of exploration in itself.
One of the teenagers with us had come very clearly for the food – and it was a joy to see him celebrate in it all week. It’s all fresh, it’s rich in vegetables and fish and fruit, and it’s from a beautiful range of cultures and corners of the world. Watching your youngsters seek out desserts to return, not only with ice cream and chocolate but with baklava and halva, is a real joy!
Whilst the five-star quality of the buffet dining is undeniable, there are a number of other restaurants on the hotel site. La Locanda offers a la carte Italian food, which was a huge hit - the simple, light Carbonara was exceptional. At the Vegghera Cretan Tavern they offer a locally sourced taster menu, so we explored every starter - the children ate vine leaves and delicious mizithra (a cheese halfway between feta and ricotta which delights the palate) and my search for authenticity felt sated and content.
By far the most beautiful of the a la carte restaurants is the Mediterranean Restaurant, Thalassa. From here we watched the sun descend in glorious technicolour whilst dining on the freshest fish imaginable. The most cynical of teenagers couldn’t deny the natural beauty of the setting, the delicacy of the food and the warm humour of the staff.
Between eating, swimming in pools and snorkelling in the sea, I was amazed to find there wasn’t a lot of time to spare. Simply moving between venues seemed to give our day a gentle shape. But should we have wished for more, there was plenty. The StarCamp is tucked into a manicured corner of the site and provides games and activities for younger children.
We spent an entertaining afternoon watching teenagers and young adults enjoy games and competitions in the water, accompanied by the laughter and encouraging cheers of those reclining on loungers around the poolside. The daily offers include Pilates, water Zumba, water basket and beach volleyball to name but a few. One of the teenagers with us has recently embarked on some serious sporting ambitions and he was delighted to use the gym every day - it’s a lovely, cool space, well equipped and not overlooked by anyone.
Though we were too busy relaxing to take up many of these opportunities, I am proud to say I managed to get myself as far as the SpaSensations, available with the hotel. At 19 years old, a massage with rich Cretan creams did not feature on my radar - in 2024, few things make me happier. The Spa is exactly what you would hope it to be, with the ubiquitous relaxing music and a full range of treatments from head massage to full body.
The deep tissue massage was powerfully intense (you can choose your preference) and I lay there for a blissful hour wishing it would never end. Not only did the massage ease any remaining aches and pains, but the soothing products were chosen thoughtfully and for me, involved some necessary after-sun care. Before I left, they gave recommendations based on my skin type and what they had observed – a clever and personal touch.
Iberostar Creta Marine is near the ancient city of Rethymno, and the city and surrounding area are definitely worth exploring. Car hire is available very near the hotel, but we were lucky enough to arrange a tour day which allowed us to dig into the local environment without worry. A 30-minute drive had us up in Margarites, a village famous for its pottery tradition.
Here we were toured around Tsikalario, a traditional Cretan pottery that has been in the Kavgalaki family for generations. We were shown the modern tools that they use to create pottery, sold locally and internationally, and had a demonstration of the art by Ma Kavgalaki herself. We also saw the tools and techniques her grandfather used including the huge old furnace he tended to fire his pots, without the aid of humidity metre or temperature gauge.
From here, the mountain road winds back down to Rethymno, a port city which has stood on that spot, in one form or another, since 1550-1250 BC. The old city is a bustling tourist destination and also home to some departments of the University of Crete. This very much felt like the Greece I explored all those years ago - old stone, tavernas whose outside tables and chairs sit under roofs of flowers, tiny shops and bustling markets. Right on the coast, it boasts its own beach and the marina is full of glamorous yachts glittering in the sun. It is also home to 90-year-old Giorgos Hatziparaskos, who is one of the last people in Greece who still creates phyllo dough by hand. His baklava and kadaifi are heavenly and well worth the trip in themselves.
To finish our day in Rethymno we dined on fresh local meze and sipped tiny glasses of Raki – the traditional fire water. Our host explained how these things must go hand in hand on Crete. "We drink to eat," she declared, “Or perhaps we eat to drink,” she added with a smile and raised eyebrow, as the youngsters in our party spluttered on their first swig. Which statement is true is something I will happily explore, at length.
Another offer available at the hotel Creta Marine is the range of watersport activities. There are jet skis for hire, inflatable sofas pulled along by speed boats, and much more. We chose for one of the Lottie Watersports team to take us out on a little boat for an exploration of the local coastline and caves. A glorious adventure, supported by some very skilled piloting which allowed us into hidden worlds inside the rocky coastline. Stalagmites and stalactites stand tall and ancient. In the largest of the caves, we could get out of the boat and swim in the dark but clear waters. It was a rare moment when teens and adults are all laughing and enjoying together – sharing in the bravery and joy of exploring something completely new and unique.
Iberostar Creta Marine is a five-star hotel carefully designed to meet the needs of everyone. Whether its watching England lose the Euros (we did, they did) in the big outdoor theatre or chatting religion and philosophy with your waiter (we did, he was warm and wise) it boasts a universal appeal. Its design means you can choose whether to sit in quiet tranquillity looking over the sea or laugh with new friends in the pool bar.
A world away from the discomforts only a 19-year-old backpacker can endure, but with an authenticity in food and design, and a honesty in the hospitality of its staff, it provides us all with what we need. I am hoping return visits to Greece might again become a feature of my life.
To book at the Iberostar Creta Marine, visit here