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The hotel was a little slice of heaven© Alex Moling

How a missed flight led to my own Race Across the World - and a magical stay in Lake Garda

And what happened when we finally arrived at Cape of Senses in Lake Garda

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Emmy Griffiths
TV & Film Editor
August 12, 2024
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There are certain things you assume will never happen to you in life. For me, missing a flight was one of them. Watching airline shows where passengers are having meltdowns because they became distracted in a Costa Coffee, I always had that little bit of schadenfreude. That would never happen to me.

Until it did!

My friend and I were invited to pay a visit to the ultra-glamorous, peaceful getaway of Cape of Senses Spa Hideaway, a specialist spa hotel that overlooks Lake Garda in Italy, for a much-needed long weekend of rest and relaxation for us both.

The hotel has two beautiful outdoor pools© Alex Moling
Our destination looked stunning... if only we could get to it

When we ventured out of the airport, bleary-eyed at 3:30 a.m., we were already checked in. We had our clear plastic bags with beauty products neatly stacked. We prepped for more than enough time—then, after a sausage sandwich and an engrossing chitchat in Gatwick's Wetherspoons—we went to check our gate number only to see the haunting phrase: "Gate Closed."

We raced to the gate anyway, hoping for the best. After all, how often do these flights actually leave on time? How many times have you seen a notice board claim that your gate is closed while still standing in a queue aimlessly waiting to board? But no. On this one occasion, the airline was perfectly on time.

Arriving at the gate 30 minutes before our flight was simply too late. We’d missed it.

A missed flight and 24 hours, we finally made it to our destination
A missed flight got us off to a rocky start

Frantic phone calls and Google Flights searches ensued as we attempted to resolve the situation, all while our plane that we were meant to be on sat motionless on the tarmac, mocking us. I felt like I’d been thrust into an episode of Race Across the World. We needed to get to Verona. There were no flights left to Verona. Did we go via Oslo, Norway, on a 12-hour journey? Could we head to Rome and get the train across the country?

Race Across The World series 4 contestants: Eugenie, Isabel, Betty, James, Alife, Owen, Stephen, Viv, Brydie & Sharon© Studio Lambert Ltd/Pete Dadds/BBC
The journey felt like an episode of Race Across the World

Eventually, we opted for a flight to Milan later that day and headed out of the airport, tail between our legs. For those who have never had the pleasure—walking against the stream of people heading towards their holidays while accompanied by a member of security is truly a humbling experience. Returning for the flight later that evening, we were faced with a new problem. We had booked the world’s worst hostel under the impression that the airline's perfect timings, which had so ruined us earlier that day, would get us there well before midnight.

But of course, our new flight was delayed by almost two hours.

When we arrived in Milan, 14 hours after our first trip to Gatwick, we ran to the taxi rank and told the driver we needed to be there 10 minutes earlier than what his Sat Nav was telling him, resulting in the world’s most terrifying car ride as he took on the challenge with gusto. He merrily shouted to us in the back seats as we squeaked at him to slow down, “You’ll lose five years of your life, but you’ll get there on time!”

After checking we were on the right train 30 times, we headed to Verona
After checking we were on the right train 30 times, we headed to Verona

He was right. The hostel receptionist, with his backpack on and ready to lock up, was bemused to see us arrive breathless and celebrating like we'd completed a marathon—and we were so relieved to be there that we hardly minded what it was like. This boded well, considering that the hostel boasted of one espresso cup for drinking water and a shared bathroom. We went to sleep, ready for the new day—which we hoped would be somewhat of an improvement.

Slowly but surely we made our way across Italy
Slowly but surely we made our way across Italy

Cape of Senses, Italy

There is a bit of panic in knowing that you're meant to be somewhere wonderful when you're not. The morning after our race to the worst hostel in Milan, we sprang out of bed at daybreak because now we were in Italy, there wasn't a second to lose to get to our destination and let our holiday begin.

Cape of Senses© Alex Moling
Cape of Senses

Hopping on a train, Milan to Verona took just over an hour. Like with all European train services, it was a lovely and inexpensive journey. Upon arriving at the Verona train station, a smart chauffeur stood with a sign bearing my name.

We had a fabulous dining experience© Florian Andergassen
We had a fabulous dining experience

My friend cried out something along the lines of, "We're saved!" And just like that, what would have been a pretty nice weekend break became a thing of wonder in our eyes after such a chaotic 24 hours.

About Cape of Senses

Cape of Senses is an adults-only spa hideaway that opened in July 2023. It has incredible panoramic views, with the hotel specially designed for every guest to enjoy the spectacular sunset over Lake Garda.

Upon arriving at the hotel's clean, bright, and welcoming reception, we were greeted with wide smiles from the staff, "You finally made it to us," one exclaimed, before giving us gift bags filled with chocolate.

The scenery was incredible© Alex Moling
The scenery was incredible

After a welcome Cape of Senses cocktail special on the balcony in the warm sunshine, we were shown to our room. With a massive double bed, corner sofa, and impressive bathroom, we sighed with relief upon switching on the rainforest shower. Perfection!

Every amenity was thought out with care and attention, from the shampoo and conditioner to the vanity items by the sink, to a powerful hairdryer tucked away neatly out of sight.

The bathroom was a far cry from our earlier chaotic hostel in Milan
The bathroom was a far cry from our earlier chaotic hostel in Milan

We beelined for the spacious balcony area, complete with a comfy sofa and cushions, to gaze over the perfectly manicured grounds, dotted with two pristine pools, a bar and restaurant area, and sunbeds spotted either by the pools or facing the truly dazzling view of Lake Garda, which was a magnificent feature of the hotel.

The rooms were beautiful and spacious
The rooms were beautiful and spacious

Whether it was a dazzling blue day, sunset, or under cloud, the view was never less than fabulous, and the sun glinted over the mountains and reflected across the water of the famously beautiful lake.

Straight away, we donned our swimming costumes and new fluffy dressing gowns with matching slippers and made our way to what the hotel is famed for, its beautiful spa offerings.

The Spa Offerings

While both of us had been stressed by the experience the day before, my good friend Pascale had spent the flight with her eyes closed, presumably manifesting time travel for us to redo our Wetherspoons Proseccos from 24 hours before, so I felt like she could do with a massage.

The indoor spa was relaxing and tranquil
The indoor spa was relaxing and tranquil

Speaking about the experience, she said: "Usually, when I get a massage, my mind is preoccupied—stressed even—trying to guess how long I have left to enjoy the massage that I’m currently worrying about. 'Ten minutes left,' I’d theorize. 'Only ten minutes left to enjoy this massage!!!' And before I know it, the session is over. The tension from my back is likely gone, but I’ve been too preoccupied to enjoy the process of removal.

"I hope Cape of Senses will take it as the highest compliment, then, that during my massage my mind was blank. An impenetrable fortress of nothingness. I was wearing only a tiny paper thong, and I didn’t worry about it once.

"My masseuse managed to relax me so much I could only concentrate on the knuckle smoothing out my shoulder knot or the thumb putting moderate pressure on the stretch of my foot… The only downside is that an hour really does fly by when you’re so relaxed that you’re not really paying attention!"

Thoughts on Dining

We spent two evenings dining at the hotel's restaurant, which had too many delicious items on the menu to be able to order them all, as much as we would have liked to, particularly when they introduced different specials every day, and it was evident that every dish was made with plenty of thought and care.

The menu was beautiful and thoughtful
The menu was beautiful and thoughtful

A Trip to the Olive Grove

The hotel also offers a variety of activities for guests who would like some variety to staying by the pool—and we took a lovely trip to a nearby olive grove, where we learned about the local production of olive oil, walked through the beautiful grounds, and enjoyed an olive oil tasting session, followed by a tasty lunch on a sunny balcony with a glass of sparkling wine. Bellissimo!

Adventurers could visit a nearby olive grove© Alex Moling
Adventurers could visit a nearby olive grove

To conclude, despite getting off to a very rocky start, we left Cape of Senses feeling perfectly happy and well-rested, a testament to the hotel's relaxing and calming atmosphere. I only wish we could have stayed for longer after losing a night, but I think it's fair to say that we appreciated the beautiful hotel all the more!

To book a stay at Cape of Senses Spa Hideaway, visit here 

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