Picture this: two dedicated and sleep-deprived grown-ups have been parenting for over eight years and are thinking of going away solo for the first time. Where to? My husband and I just want to sleep and nourish our bodies, which have been running on low energy for a while now. Yes, we love being parents, but we want a pause from the juggle, the hundreds of mental to-do lists and our kids' social activities (which are endless!)
We decided to visit a thermal spa resort in Tuscany, Italy. The Terme di Saturnia Natural SPA & Golf Resort, located a two-hour drive from Rome, has been running since 1919 and the hot springs in this stunning location are the same ones that Roman soldiers would go to heal their wounds after a battle - would it heal our overworked brains and overtired bodies? Spoiler alert - it did!
Our arrival wasn't without drama. The heavy turbulence during landing turned my husband's stomach upside down and the pouring rain made the journey to the hotel longer, but as soon as we saw the stunning view of the Cascate del Mulino (hot spring waterfalls) from the main road, we suddenly felt a rush of serenity. We no longer cared about the weather and quickly stopped the car to admire Tuscany’s hidden treasure whilst raindrops completely soaked us.
Once we entered the resort, a 20-minute walk from Cascate del Mulino - which is free to visit 24/7 all year round - all we could see were guests in fluffy white robes. We were later told that at Saturnia thermal resort, 'by wearing robes, everyone is equal. There are no distinctions like class or wealth.'
And so, with our robes on, and our clothes safely in our travel bag, we began to explore the resort. Saturnia Thermal Spa Resort has so much on offer that it truly took a good three days to discover it all. It features an award-winning spa, a golf resort which is accoladed for the best view in Italy, open-air hot springs, Roman baths, saunas and more.
I wanted the break to start off with a bang, and so I headed to the spa where I enjoyed an 80-minute Ulivitas massage involving hot olive oil and powdered basil, which activates hemolymphatic circulation - who knew? The experience was incredible and I left feeling like I was floating on air.
During the following days, we tried several treatments, such as an 80-minute Anti-Age Active Beauty facial and a 50-minute deep tissue massage. The spa is very popular since it tailors to a large variety of customers. There are cryotherapy, naturopathy and even thermal health treatments.
Everything is amazing, but I don’t think you realise how special this place is until you’ve relaxed in its main thermal spring and felt the bubbles come up from the depths of the Earth and tickle your body. It’s also incredible to think that these hot springs have been at this exact location for 3,000 years and have been enriched by fossil clays and minerals during a 40-year journey. Yes, you read right, as I was told at the hotel, rain that fell 40 years ago is now coming up from the depth of the Earth – that’s rain from 1984 (I wasn’t even born)!
By day two we were firmly into relaxation mode. I am someone whose brain is always working overtime. I am always thinking ahead, making mental lists about food shops, kids' activities, Christmas, and even next summer’s plans. I never stop. So, it was an incredible feeling to have a blank head for a few days.
We never really had a plan for the day in the resort, who knew I could be so last-minute and 'wild' again?
There is no need to leave the resort during your stay there, but I would say it would be a crime not to visit the Cascate del Mulino. We did so on two different occasions, once for sunrise on a weekday, and another after breakfast time on a Saturday.
My advice, try and visit during the week, there are fewer tourists and if you want a more intimate experience, visit at sunrise. (And take flip flops with you to wade into the water, you'll thank me later).
If you are also feeling adventurous, the hotel has e-bikes on hand that you can borrow. We took them on a ride to the nearby village, Saturnia, as well as a nearby viewing point we had stopped by on the first day, to just sit and people-watch from afar.
Another favourite time of the day was lunch and dinner time. The resort is blessed with three incredible restaurants. You have 1919, which overlooks the Terme di Saturnia Natural Hot Spring and is located in the main building, the Trattoria La Stellata, which has incredible views of the Tuscany hills and is definitely the best area for sunset, if like me you enjoy that time of day.
Finally, you have Il Bar Drink & Food Library, also located within the hotel and next to the hot springs. There is something for everyone and the food is equally as good in all of them but La Stellata’s potato gnocchi and tagliolini creamed in cheese with truffle was to die for. I still dream about them.
Now, I must admit I went into this trip thinking that my mind would still be very much with my kids back in London, but it wasn’t. I relaxed, I enjoyed myself, I ate and drank well, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. Sadly, upon arriving back home, my kids told us ‘Absolutely not, next time, we are going with you’. We’ll see.
Rates for Terme di Saturnia Natural SPA & Golf Resort in Tuscany start at €350,00 per night per room, incl Breakfast and Spa access. Find the best deals at Lastminute.com or booking.com.
FYI, our travel journalism is written and edited by our expert writers to inspire readers. Hotel reviews have been independently reviewed by our expert writers who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.