Burberry
Burberry hosted its latest ready to wear catwalk show at Old Sessions House. The impressively grandiose venue combined with the soundtrack of the Pet Shop Boys deliberately celebrated the greatness of Great Britain with a modern twist. It quickly became clear that check is back, and in a big way.
British patchwork and tartan prints through to Burberry's very own vintage novacheck nostalgically featured everywhere from caps, coats and collars to polo-necks and bags. The collection also toyed with a mash up of textures and colours. Heritage fair-isle printed knits were contrasted with contemporary sheer plastic car coats and hoodies or colourful faux-fur jackets.
Bohemian slouchy cardigans and knitwear were next to sheer embroidered skirts and dresses, all paired with argyle print socks and heels and an asymmetric statement earring. To celebrate the launch of the collection, the old courthouse will also host the Here We Are photography exhibition curated by Luca Kumara Moore and Alasdair McLellan. Created to celebrate British style, the exhibition will be held until the end of the month!
Mother Of Pearl
Dedicated to the late stylist Lucy Ewing who sadly passed away earlier this year the show was a moving start to LFW Day 2. Held in the decadent tapestry room at the Ned hotel, sound tracked with a live haunting vocal performance by Sophie-Rose Harper, the show was both romantic and bold in equally measures.
Designer Amy Powney scattered signature pearls over slippers and ornate cushions carried as oversized clutch bags by the models. Quilted crepe-de-chine dressing gown style coats in botanical prints mixed harmoniously with striped satin pjs and ruffle edged sleeves. A breathtakingly beautiful collection truly fitting of the splendid surrounding and we guarantee her 'pearly queen' graphic scarves will be next season’s sellout.
House Of Holland
Henry Holland's SS18 show saw provocative tomboy styled beach babes strutting down the runway to the sound of The Street's 'Original Pirate Material.' His signature stripes were present, but with a sweet summer twist - think waterproof tailoring, texture rich knits, dreamy flyaway voile separates and pastel coloured raffia pirate hats (yep, really.)
We're predicting the oversized bum bags and beaded macrame totes are going to be next season must-haves - they're giving us summer feels already
JW Anderson
HFM beauty director Charlotte Jolly went backstage with NARS Cosmetics to get the first glimpse of this season’s JW Anderson girl. “The skin is super clean,” explained lead make-up artist Mark Carrasquillo.
“The cleanest you’ve ever seen. We brushed up the brows and then ran what I call a ‘surgical line’ (because it’s so straight) of black along the lower lash line using NARS Black Valley Eye Paint. Super simple. We only used concealer (NARS Soft Matte Complete Concealer) to cover redness, not eye bags. And when the girls lined up to walk on to the runway we patted away any shine with a cotton pad soaked in NARSskin Multi-Action Hydrating Toner, instead of powder - for a bright, fresh face.”
Markus Lupfer
Bold colour, azure blues and powder puff pinks were mixed in with psychedelic prints at Markus Lupfer's presentation. Models lounged on seventies printed armchairs, with the vibe that the Markus Lupfer girl is too busy to sleep, instead finding down time beside the pool in Palm Springs; umbrella-topped drink in hand.
Glittering earrings dangled to the collarbones while sequinned rainbows and jewelled parrots adorned shoes. Off kilter glamour could be seen through the mix of modern-day twin sets layered over sporty chevron knits, while printed blouses were tucked into the smallest of shorts. Sequinned appliqué florals graced sheer organza frocks in both pink and blue, all topped off with the most fabulous of oversized acetate shades.
Simone Rocha
The SS18 Simone Rocha show, held in the historic Middle Temple Hall, was an abundance of delicate and romantic charm. Dramatic, period floor-length dresses dominated the runway; tulle was paired with embroidered patterns and floral prints paired with sequin embellishments. This resulted in a beautiful show of strong femininity that is characteristic of Simone Rocha’s collections.
We saw a lot of darker colour based prints, as has predominated in recent seasons, as well as monochromatic contrasts, lighter off-whites and spring time pinks with playful cut outs and details. Waists were often belted or cinched which allowed for much more dramatic proportions to be experimented with elsewhere, while still keeping a wonderfully feminine silhouette.
Sadie Williams
“The make-up was inspired by the colours and textures of Sadie’s collection,” said lead make-up artist Lucy Bridge. The look was pretty bare bones (face oils to waken up skin, blot powder, eyelash curlers, clear brow gel) save for the statement, glitter-strewn eyelids. Use Mac Mixing Medium to press loose, glittery pigment on to the centre of lids.
Isa Arfen
Shoe guru Charlotte Olympia collaborated with Isa Arfen designer Serafina Sama to create a modern version of the traditional Japanese Geta sandals as part of a collection inspired by the mystical island of Naoshima. Italian-born Serafina, who visited the island last year, evoked the poetry and romance of the Japanese spring with blossom prints on floaty, light-as-air fabrics set against a minimalist backdrop for her London Fashion Week presentation.
Ethereal models in frothy dresses passed origami notes between them as they drifted past or lounged about in utilitarian cotton coats. But it wasn't all languid romanticism. In a nod to her childhood love of manga comics, the designer also presented playful mini dresses, jersey bodysuits and shiny short trench coats.
Alice Archer
HFM favourite Alice Archer curated another stunning presentation today where models appeared part of living portraits. Inspired by the work of John Singer Sargent, Alice's signature embroideries were worked onto silk linen suiting, kimonos and decadent evening gowns.
A sky blue wide legged jumpsuit was dotted with strawberry plant needlework and over-sized lemons featured on silk kimono tops. Feminine details like beaded Pompons and pretty silk bows upped the fun factor. We can't wait to bring the orchard into our wardrobes come next spring.
Fashion East
Matty Bovan
With a stellar model line-up, Matty Bovan opened with Edie Campbell and continued with a host of A-list faces including Hailey Baldwin, Georgia May Jagger and Winnie Harlow.
Known for his knitwear the collection featured raw-edged knitted panels fastened with plastic clips, graphic fabrics interspersed with sequins and lurex chain mail, while motocross inspired acrylic shin pads decorated the models arms. A palette of primary colours and bold geometric shapes continued through to the make-up, reminiscent of sixties pop-art.
Fashion East
Supriya Lele
Supriya Lele is influenced by her Indian and British cultural identity and her second season cements her fascination with draping, synthetics and handiwork techniques inspired by her heritage. Models wore their hair straight with haphazardly placed kinks, while diamantes were key on belts, oversized chandelier earrings, anklets and bracelets worn high up the arm.
Fashion East
Asai
Head hunted for Kanye Wests Yeezy label, Central Saint Martins graduate, A Sai Ta, returned to London to launch his own label this year. The collection explores the nuances of his British-Chinese-Vietnamese heritage, which is evident in the origami pleats, grandiose silk opera coats and delicate spiral skirts.
Bamboo appears as golden jewellery, nunchucks become a handbag and goldfish and dragons swirl across thigh-high boots.
Molly Goddard
We’re majorly crushing on the curls at Molly Goddard. “Think Julia Roberts in the early nineties, or Jennifer Grey in Dirty Dancing,” said hair stylist Luke Hersheson. “Molly wanted it to look like the hair she always wanted a school. I think there’s a lot of nostalgia for that era at the moment.
We haven’t seen perms in so long they look fresh again.” Luke used John Frieda products backstage; Frizz Ease Curler Reviver Mousse on damp hair and Frizz Ease Moisture Barrier Intense Hold to set the spirals.
