Topshop - Fashion
Model of the moment Adwoa Aboah opened to the Pet Shop Boys 'West End Girls' and the references were loud and clear - late 80s gritty London nightlife. She was followed by a flurry of famous girls (Hailey Baldwin, Jordan Dunn, Joan Smalls) wearing atomic metallic leather and teeny-tiny bandeau dresses mixed and Iggy Pop-style mohair vests.
Sport Luxe featured too in the shape of satin runner shorts, shell tops and track
pants worn with high satin mules. Highlights, though, were the frothy marabou trimmed slip dresses, baby dolls and negligee wraps. You can imagine a young Kate Moss wearing all of it - she was in the front row with Sir Philip Green and new Vogue editor Edward Enninful, and her style influence on the brand could be seen throughout.
Topshop - Beauty
"The references we received revolved around a 24-hour Soho in the Sixties," explained hair stylist Duffy at Topshop. "Mud Club, Ronnie Scotts, Windmill... so we're recreating day-old hair here. Draw a centre-part and scrap one side straight back - spray with L'Oreal Professionnel Infinium Hairspray. Then we tonged the other side - the secret to getting relaxed 'S' waves is to switch directions when you're wrapping hair around the barrell." Lynsey Alexander was the lead make-up artist. "This is the sort of make-up that looks better the longer it's on the skin," she said. And although there was barely anything on the skin (save for a highlight along the cheekbone) the eye make-up more than made up for it. "We asked models whether they wanted a pink or green glittery eye," said Lynsey. "We fashioned the pink one using a lip liner and glitter pigment, but for the green there's a new Topshop eye shadow (coming out next year), called Amaze - it has incredible pay-off."
Anya Hindmarch - Beauty
Hair stylist Luke Hersheson had to work around Anya's statement silk head bands, so opted for a neat, tightly-folded pleat and added a "kooky, slightly demented" micro fringe to stop it looking too twee. He prepped hair with John Frida Frizz-Ease 6 Effect Serum and set it using John Frida Frizz-Ease 6 Moisture Barrier Hairspray.
The make-up was anchored by a dusky doe-eye. Val Garland used Mac Lip Liner in Spice along the upper lash line, followed by the Mocha Minded shade from Mac's new Semi Sweet Eye Shadow Palette - out next year.
Preen By Thornton Bregazzi
The seasoned designers put on a show deconstructing femininity at the Queen Elizabeth II centre. Hair was deliberately dishevelled while the clothes were bold, but still impeccably elegant, in an array of colours from pretty pastels to bold, romantic reds.
The SS18 collection was fresh and light; delicate looks were hardened ever so slightly by deconstructed, asymmetric shapes and different textures. Dresses, for the most part, remained long but layered with swathes of material whether it be in the form of ruffles, capes, shirts or jackets. The trouser suit also made an appearance, notably in pretty pale, dusty shades, suggesting that even the most feminine of women should be claiming their right to power dress.
Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou is well known as 'The Queen of Print' and her SS18 collection did not disappoint. The show, inspired by the youthful creativity of children, was full of bursts of colour and vibrant print clashes with some subtle sporty detailing. Shoes ranged from lace up boots to metallic sandals, platforms were sky high and adorned with fun, colourful details straight from a child's playroom.
Watch out for floral and multi-coloured patterns and lego (yes, lego!), all adorned with sequins and embellishments, paired with colour blocking, polka dot layers, multi-coloured fringing or patent ruffles. Checks featured too in what seemed to be an extension of SS17's gingham obsession. Katrantzou played around with proportions with some pieces featuring gigantic ballooning details while others were more streamlined and feminine.
Temperley London - Beauty
We learnt a new word backstage at Temperley: 'foulard' - a thin, soft material of silk or cotton, typically having a printed pattern. The hair was wrapped in a foulard, giving the look a glamorous, French Riviera twist. "Imagine spending the day on a yacht and then getting ready quickly to make dinner reservations," said hair stylist Antonio Corral Calero. "Prep hair using Morrocanoil Original Treatment Oil, then spritz with Dry Texture Spray (to expand the strands). Blow-dry hair straight. The models with short hair styles got a cute little tuck and for the girls with longer, thicker hair we braided it - a two-strand braid, starting an inch above the nape of the neck. Centre partings make it look modern."
Peter Pilotto
The SS18 Peter Pilotto show was an array of pretty pastels and bright summer colours, stripes and florals all across soft silks and shimmering layers. Sportswear was given a luxe 80s make-over with matching jackets and bottoms also in silk with retro stripe detailing. Trousers were elegantly tailored while tops often featured statement sleeves, cut outs or ruched details. Dresses were delicate with handkerchief hemlines or floaty, lightweight layers of contrasting patterns. Shoes matched the same colour palette as the collection, though there was also a clear nod to the white shoe trend we're witnessing now, all adorned with a metal block heel.
Temperley London - Fashion
Alice Temperley's Riviera-inspired show was everything we wanted it to be and more. From the crisp setting, complete with tile pattern flooring and white shutters, to the tulle princess-dresses, uber wearable, lightweight stripe co-ords and sequin-adorned jumpsuits. Ultra feminine styled with ankle lace flatforms that went straight onto our SS18 wishlists.
Roland Mouret - Beauty
Sam Mcknight said hair needed "minimal intervention", because the idea was to work with each girl's natural texture. "There were no references or such, but Roland did mention Georgia O'Keeffe and Frida Kahlo - strong independent women. So there's no stamped-on look. It's not about the army; that doesn't feel modern anymore." Instead of laboured blow-dries, Sam used his Cool Girl Hairspray to add grip to loose strands and the girls with long, thick hair got a "chunky, horse braids."
Roland also introduced his new fragrance backstage: Une Amourette. He worked with Etat Libre d'Orange on this scent. "I know how to dress skin," he said. "So that was my starting point. A neroli note gives it freshness. Incense and patchouli create darker undertones - patchouli reminds me of my girlfriend in the 70s, it's very nostalgic for me. The fragrance is not unisex, but it's non-binary. It's for people with life experience. I love its subversive attitude. Like my clothes, I hope I've found my signature with this scent."
Holly Fulton
Holly Fulton invited us into her drawing room - literally - as the furnishings were just as much a part of her new collection as the clothes. Held in one of London's ultra grand Carlton House Terrace white-stuccoed mansions, the presentation saw models reclining on Moooi sofas featuring the designer's bold monochrome print with clashing throws and cushions made in collaboration with John Smedley.
There was a distinct 60s hippy vibe with models sporting diamanté-buckled headbands, oversized medallion necklaces and Biba-esque printed trousers. Long-line track pants, knitted sports tops (again, part of a collab with Smedley) and graphic mini skirts and dresses signalled an exciting new direction for the mistress of print.
