Antonio Berardi
Antonio Berardi offered up enough of his signature glitz and structure to keep his core customer happy but, at the same time, enticed a new crowd with a looser, more playful collection - evident from the moment his models stepped out featuring hennaed hands.
Berardi teamed nail work by the world's fastest henna artist Pavan with shiny red ankle boots, handkerchief-hem skirts and dresses and cape-style draping over one shoulder.
Patterns were a mix of bold and abstract with a graphic wave pattern a recurring theme. One-shoulder jersey dresses with form-fitting bodices gave way to billowing soft-pleated skirts gathered at the end for a more sophisticated look while cotton-checked full skirts with exaggerated zig-zag hems added a youthful touch. Floaty evening gowns with sheer panels were teamed with loose silk jackets and lace-up boots.
Models-of-the-moment Iowa native Alanna Arrington and Aussie girl Akiima gave the show the cool factor.
Ashish
In a packed darkened room within the BFC show space large silver glitter balls transformed the catwalk, creating a room of sparkle before the show had even begun. The twinkling light was accompanied by the music of Harpist Tomos Xerri playing live to a brightly coloured sequinned front row, indisputably in head-to-toe Ashish. The models, including Leomie Anderson, walked barefoot, sometimes hand-in-hand, in black hoodies, lace cutwork, sheer organza sparkling slips and in his iconic sequinned tees, which included slogans such as 'Good Mourning' 'Queer' and 'Witch'. Accessories featured jangling anklets, nose-rings and battery-operated halos of light and tinsel, rotating overhead as dramatic headpieces. Blondie's 'Heart of Glass' provided the up-beat tempo for the finale song.
Christopher Kane - Beauty
"A greasy ponytail laden down with product," is how Guido Palau described the hair look at Christopher Kane. The aforementioned products were Redken Shine Flash and Control Addict 28 Hairspray. "It's supposed to be gritty and tough. And it's not a perfect pony; I caught the hair over the ear and there’s a little bit falling down across the parting. It has character."
Emilia Wickstead
The designer always pulls a crew of immaculately groomed women and this season was no exception. Olivia Palermo, Erin O’Connor, Giovanna Battaglia and Laura Bailey bumped shoulders with actress Jenna Coleman while sipping pink tinted cocktails. Models almost waltzed around the decadent circular rotunda bar to the soundtrack from True Romance wearing barely-there sheer cocktail gowns and vintage floral wallpaper prints. Emilia does the kind of event dresses every girl wants but this time there were also more separates and jumpsuits to tempt. Drop waists, Grecian necklines, balloon sleeves, yolk collars (she knows how to keep us hooked). Plus the finer details that seal the deal when it comes to investing in her designs: giant bows, pearl buttons and pin- tucked sleeves - think a dressed-up Mary Ingles in her Little House On The Prairie. Dreamy!
Erdem
"What if a young Princess Elizabeth went to a club in Harlem in the 1940s?" This is the reference hair stylist Anthony Turner had to work with at Erdem. So, he came up with a squiffy fringe roll. "Prep hair with L'Oreal Professionnel Techni.ART Pli and Full Volume Extra Mousse - lots of it. Take a section of hair - a triangle above your forehead, as if you were cutting in a fringe - tong it so the hair has some bend, backcomb it, then roll it up and stick a bobby pin in it. Bits are going to fall out, it’s going to be off to an angle, but that's ok."
Julien MacDonald
With the Julien MacDonald show growing in numbers (and lateness - fashionably, of course) each season, it's little wonder the chosen venue was the Bankside Vaults in Southwark, a huge cavernous brick-walled space packed full with reality stars, famous pop-faces and fashion-folk. Ciroc vodka cocktails circulated as the hour grew later and later and finally, after much FROW-papping of attendees including Amanda Holden, Ronan Keating and Tom Daley, the show started to a crescendo of deep house, smoke machines and purple strobe lighting. Hailee Baldwin opened in a (very) little black sparkly frock and a whole host of Victoria's Secret models followed suit, including Martha Hunt, Georgia Fowler and arguably the most famous angel of them all, Alessandro Ambrosio. The clothes were akin to that of the VS show, too, with the common denominator being a lot of skin, body-con, sheers and sequins in catsuits, cut-out dresses and mesh-panelled sparkle minis. It ended in showbiz style with models dancing around with Julien as strips of silver and blue metallic foil rained down from the ceiling.
Roksanda - Beauty
Showing at the Serpentine Galley, the look was beautifully refined. Make-up artist Miranda Joyce said the skin was “expensive-looking”. The complexion was prepped using Embryolisse Lait Creme-Concentre and MAC Face and Body Foundation. MAC Mixing Medium Shine was used to add highlights and the slightly blown-out mouth comes courtesy of MAC’s Lip Pencil in Beet.
Sophia Webster
Nestled amongst wisteria lay Sophia Webster's ethereal muses, enrobed in Michael Van Der Ham (as styled by Leith Clark) and accessorised with Sophia's fairytale-inspired shoes and bags. Oversized leather floating petal heels contrasted against sleek sophisticated satins in a romantic colour palette of antique rose, rusts and nudes. The showstopper boots, as expected, were jaw-droppingly beautiful, encrusted with antique crystal brooches, pearls and ribbon trims. Treat your feet to these works of art come spring.
Toga
Set in the atmospheric Southwark Cathedral, the theme of the Toga SS18 show was described as 'holes, suits, crumpled' and before long, oversized tailoring with exaggerated shoulders could be seen sashaying down the church-turned-catwalk. Perspex was key featuring on everything from shoes and belts to oversized hoops and dip-dye trench coats worn over separates. Models wore their hair wet-look in low ponies while make-up was less low-maintenance including tinsel adorned eyelashes and dramatic red glitter lips. Peekaboo, off-shoulder detailing on printed dresses and tops revealed matching triangle bras underneath while other dresses came complete with an embellished leg hoop - clearly referencing the 'holes' part of the collection. The finale saw models walking to the honey-coated sounds of Nina Simone's 'I Wish I Knew How'.
