David Koma
With a front row that included Jourdan Dunn, Lara Stone and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, David Koma's AW18 show saw models walking down the aisles of St. George's church in London’s Bloomsbury. The opening looks centred around leather, shearlings and pony-skin - from balloon-skirted mini-dresses and aviator jackets to accents seen on trims and cuff details. Stand out accessories were the pony-hair boots by Louboutin and the elegant leather opera gloves. Tribal decoration came in the form of fringing, while plume elements were rife. Embroidered quill motifs were seen on burn-out silks, while bright silver appliques bejewelled with Swarovski crystals sparkled across evening wear. Black, off-white, violet and oxblood made up the colour palette, serving as the perfect backdrop for the elaborate silver beadwork and shiny metal accents.
Sophia Webster
You can always rely on Sophia Webster to jazz things up a bit (ok, a lot). Just when we were sure AW18 was going to be a muted affair, Sophia stepped up the game with a glitter festooned presentation at the sumptuous Café Royal's Pompadour Ballroom - and it didn’t disappoint. Inspired by Baz Luhrmann's Strictly Ballroom, her latest collection embodies the opulent, vibrant and intensely glam world of ballroom and Latin dance. Having danced competitively at Blackpool Tower in her youth, Sophia has built a host of strappy peep toe sandals influenced by the famous gilt Rococo ceiling at the ballroom, accompanied by an abundance of bedazzled accessories. The presentation, aptly named 'I don’t Need A Mango To Tango' was a welcome departure from autumnal offerings, and provided the ultimate insta content - Kira Kira sparkles, giant disco ball boomerangs and a performance by professional dancers clad in new season Webster’s. Dazzling crystal encrusted shoes and bags were displayed in trophy cabinets, plinths and sequin clad models on winner's podiums, whilst a backdrop of shimmer curtains, glitter balls and drapes provided the perfect setting for the brands latest offering. In true signature Sophia Webster style, speech bubble bags sporting quotes such as "she's the greatest dancer" and "groove is in the heart" we're swung around by towering models whilst rhinestoned heels snaked their way up their legs. The outfits, created by Christian Cowan, perfectly captured the sassy essence of the collection and that of the dance scene, with a myriad of feathers, crystals and embellishment.
Beauty
It's official, textured manicures are the coolest nail trend to take from A/W18. And queen of nail artistry and CND ambassador Marian Newman is spearheading the look. Backstage at Sophia Webster she upped the ante, crafting nine different looks which each took one person two long days (10 hours) to create! Using Swarovski flatpack gems and crystal pixie sparkles to transform glossy talons into a works of modern art – sunset ombre effects, fishnet french tips and pretty polka dots were just a few looks on show. The inspiration was the glitz and glam of the strictly ballroom, with each nail like a new dance, coordinating with the shoes and dress. "This is about making nails the ultimate fashion accessory – it's what you do when you want your absolute whole look to be complete."
Roksanda Beauty
Low maintenance hair – the kind that looks like it has barely been touched (yet looks still effortlessly polished), has been a bubbling trend for some time. And supreme hair stylist James Pecis has basically guaranteed it will be sticking around for another season. Variations on 'clean and pretty hair' were the focus. Pecis started all the looks with a clean texture, then added a pound sized blob of Redken Liss Control (a HFM favourite) from the roots to the tips and blow dried it back with a Dyson hair dyer to create movement and build up the texture. He then gathered up the hair into low ponies, knotted chignons and pretty down dos for a perfectly undone messiness. The result was simple yet elegant and utterly wearable.
Paula Knorr
German-born, British based designer Paula Knorr is one of London Fashion Weeks most exciting on-schedule designers. Her innovative draping and cutting techniques are the reason behind her a-list following - counting the likes of Bjork, Solange Knowles and Katy Perry as fans. Her AW18 collection plays with the impact of intimacy and sensuality in female dressing. Silhouettes are figure hugging and dramatic, while fabrics are visually strong and luxurious - think shiny velvets, metallics and heavy sequins mixed with wool trousers and tunics. Showcased on a diverse cast of models from Linden and STAUB model agency, the pieces are designed to empower women today, an important message a lot of designers are highlighting this season in light of the current #metoo movement.
Mother of Pearl
Adopting the see-now-buy-now model of a few brands this season creative director Amy Powney gave us a glimpse of what we’d rather be wearing for spring on this dark drizzly day in south London. Graphic prints of giant polka dots, checks and deckchair stripes popped in the stark white gallery space. A wide check coat over a gingham dress looked fresh and modern and distinctly British. Picnic blankets morphed into clutch bags and shoes were decorated with oversized bows and ankle ties. Amy generally serves her clothes with a unique twist: satin puffa jackets were in metallic dog tooth check, deconstructed sleeves held in place with her customary pearls. Yet for those who prefer their style straight up there was plenty on offer; elegant white silk pant suits, long tulip printed silk dresses and indigo double denim. See-now-buy-now? Yes please!
Christopher Kane
Always one to provoke and find inspiration in the subjects others might shy away from (bondage, decay and nudity) the designer’s AW18 collection didn't avoid sex in the wake of the #metoo climate instead he fully embraced it. There were original 'Joy of Sex' illustrations of woman in the throws of passion on dresses, bondage leathers and cage dresses trimmed in crystals. The theme ran to sweaters with strings of diamanté dripping from necklines and cuffs and cascading from kitten-heeled boots. Clear plastic coated lace dresses and trenches trimmed with boudoir style marabou feathers. 'More Joy' logo sweaters and sparkly sweater dresses that will be instant sell outs. We can't imagine any woman not feeling empowered by Kane's beautiful and provocative clothes, surely it's all in the way you wear them.
Beauty
Legendary makeup artist Lucia Pieroni was all about 'celebrating individual beauty' backstage at Christopher Kane where dewy bases and Kirakira-esque radiance sent beauty journalists into overdrive. Pieroni prepped skin using Nars Radiance Primer under and over foundation for a 'just ran for the bus' glossy hint before tapping Nars 413 BLKR Illuminator onto the highlight points (tops of cheekbones, down the nose and cupids bow) to glisten against the runway lights. For a just bitten wintery mouth she blended two lips shades, Pride and Greed from the new Audacious Lipstick Palette (out in autumn) across the back of her hand and pushed them into models lips – each girl had a slightly different take depending on her natural look. Top tip: use Pride and Greed lip shades in place of blush for a subtle flush – cream textures tend to give more of a natural finish than their powder counterparts.
