Here's HFM's round-up of the best shows from the fifth day at London Fashion Week….
Natasha Zinko
An unusual start to a fashion show to say the least. Models in identical 80s grey wool blazers lined-up in the centre of a conference hall to the sound of typing as letters appeared on a giant screen in front of the audience. Then boom "Working 9-5" came over the sound system and it all made perfect sense. Removing their blazers to reveal the designers AW18 collection the models began to snake their way around the hall. These were 80s power dressed woman sporting PVC thigh boots, neon and houndstooth, fringed black leather jackets and long sleeveless waistcoats styled with purple shell suit pants. Followed by marabou feather trims, corset dresses and there was even a faux thong peeping out the back of tailored trousers. Bad taste becomes good taste in the Natasha Zinko world and 'a woman can have fun with what she wears and still be the boss' read the press release – we'll take that!
Beauty
"There's a serious 80s power vibe going on", said Lucy Burt on the inspiration behind her look. Post-spa dewy skin was delivered by therapists from Pfeffersal Spa in the form of an express organic facial massage to sculpt and tone (we spied a rose quartz being used) primed ready for makeup. "80s power woman was the inspiration behind the collection so we've interpreted that in a really modern and sophisticated way. We've applied Swarovski crystals in a cat-eye shape to embellish eyes and we've left super clean." Faces were refreshed with a spritz of Shinso's hydrating mist just before they hit the runway.
Teatum Jones
Another brand to break from tradition when it came to the catwalk format was Teatum Jones. The show dedicated to 'Global Womanhood' started with a video showing 25 unique women recalling their most instinctive human emotions of joy, sadness and hope. The intimate conversations were premiered in 3 intervals throughout the show. And the theme of diversity continued as Neelam Gill led the charge wearing a bright fuchsia tent dress followed by the rest of the models including amputee Kelly Knox and fashion presenter and campaigner for positive body image Caryn Franklin. The clothes Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones delivered were no less note worthy, clashing pink and red sheath dresses, sleek knitwear with cut out hole sleeves, lace-up details with giant eyelets and dreamy pants suits in delicious colours. To take away for next season was a new styling trick of velvet ribbon through our jean waistband and more importantly that fashion can play a part in making changes.
Isa Arfen
On the front row opposite the age defying beauty that is Yasmin Le Bon we noticed the set came straight out of a junk shop. A wooden rocking chair, battered filing cabinets and a old bedside table hosted the biggest editors and influencers in the fashion business. They turned out to watch a designer that is fast becoming a hot favourite of those in the know. Serafina Sama for Isa Arfen drafted in a full steel band to give a party vibe to the proceedings, kicking off with their version of Queen's 'Bohemian Rhapsody' and sliding into A Guy Called Gerald's 'Voodoo Ray'. Reinventing the very best of 80s fashion: knickerbockers, velvet corset dresses, exaggerated bows, frills and shoulders and tartan topped off with giant berets. Sweaters were coated in jewels with puff shoulders and the odd chain belt reminded us just how prim can turn trashy in an instant. This was Princess Diana Sloane meets punk, all set to a carnival vibe and we loved it!
Beauty
One word to describe the look NARS global makeup artist Andrew Gallimore created at Isa Arfen? 'Tired'. The muse was 1930's Dutch photographer Eva Besnyö who was clearly a grafter. 'She had a really cool look – like she was tired around the eyes and with these big bristly eyebrows,' said Andrew. Skin was left raw, with artists just spot applying concealer. Eyes were deliberated made to look worn in by layering two NARS Powermatte Lip Pigments in Somebody to Love, (a new warm beige shade out in autumn) and Done it Again (a burgundy hue) rubbed around the eyes until sheer. Finishing the look, brows were brushed up and boyish using a tinted eyebrow gel.
Shrimps
Shrimps is a designer everyone looks forward to each season to brighten up the week and add a little fuzzy fun to our lives. Held at the Topshop Showspace on Floral Street this year, this seasons offering was inspired by the Parisian Art Patron from the 20th Century, Gertrude Stein. Entitled The Romance Collection, the display included love heart adorned carpet with fluffy roses spread between the models. As the brand delves into footwear for the first time with a capsule collection for AW18, Shrimps has worked with renowned accessories designer Lotte Selwood to create the most beautiful slip-on kitten heels and pearl encrusted sliders (worn with socks for Winter, naturally). The colour palette was romantic yet exotic with jewel tones of ruby reds, turquoise and brilliant yellows. Their signature faux-furs were printed with abstract flora and fauna and tiered in fluffy, floor-length ruffles. The dresses featured fanciful frilled sleeves and sweetheart necklines, a dreamy presentation to warm our hearts for the Winter.
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi is fast becoming one of the highlights of LFW. For AW18 the Korean-born, London-based designer has taken inspiration from the Cornish harbour town of St Ives and a collection of modernist artists who settled there in post World War I. Having felt particularly compelled by the artist Alfred Wallis, a former seaman and ice cream vendor, the influence of creamy ice cream shades was evident as well as the nod to the sea. The collection began as a muted affair with statement trenches and asymmetric shirting, but evolved to include pops of red, mint green and lilac in lithe, fluid fabrics. This season Choi played heavy emphasis on detail - hoods, eyelets, belting, buttons, pleats and ruching whilst vinyl trench coats and oversized scarves resembling fishermen's knits featured heavily, as did hoods tied at the neck like a neckerchief giving the overall look an almost regal feel. Teaming up with renowned milliner Noel Stewart, Eudon worked a modern take on the traditional seafarer hats to create the standout accessory of the collection - although, coming in close behind are the variety of handbags; from large Perspex covered Prince of Wales shoppers to miniature bags in leather and vinyl. The collection was awash with wearable and stand-out pieces that we can’t wait to wear come Autumn/Winter!
Beauty
Don't get us wrong, we love fresh-faced backstage, but a graphic eyeliner is one of those trends that has us reaching for the nearest sharpie to give it a good ol' go. Master makeup artist Lucy Bridge took her inspiration from Eudon's colourful clothing. "There's around seven or eight statement liner looks on models who have the perfect almond eye shape. We've used MAC chromagraphic pencils to map out the lines and painted over the top using a fine liner brush dipped in the chromaline paint, for the red and the yellow eyes. In the line up we're going to give their cheekbones a strobey, hyper-real effect with MAC's lustre drops on the highlight points." For those of us who struggle to perfect that fine flick, this one's for you. "We to lend a roughness to the look to make it believable that the girls did own eyeliner so it isn’t perfectly winged out."
Richard Quinn
When whispers of a royal attendee started floating around the British Fashion Council show-space, we knew London-born Richard Quinn's already highly-anticipated show would be something special. It wasn't until we saw a flash of immaculately coiffed white hair that we realised it was HRH herself, being chaperoned over to her special cushioned chair next to Anna Wintour, by chief executive of the BFC Caroline Rush. Gasps spread down the runway, followed by the click of what seemed like a hundred cameras - then silence waiting for the show to start. The Central Saint Martin's graduate's collection was a spectacle to say the least - 'a tongue in cheek take on Balmoral, the Richard Quinn way' - think monarch-inspired swing coats, silk head scarves and his signature striking floral prints that have won him high acclaim from fashion editors worldwide. After Quinn took his bow, Her Royal Highness addressed the audience and presented the designer with the first ever Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, which recognises him as the UK's bright new fashion talent - a true royal seal of approval. This award will be handed annually to emerging British fashion designers who show exceptional talent and originality, while demonstrating value to the community and/or strong sustainable policies. Let's hope the Queen becomes a FROW regular!